Vegetarian●●●Origin Tamil NaduPrep 40 minutes, plus standing timeCook 35–40 minutes
Bitter gourds are hollowed, poached, stuffed with a spiced root-vegetable hash, and fried crisp before being simmered in a sweet, sour, and punchy mustard-and-tomato gravy.
Poaching spices
1.5 gAdded to the poaching water with the tamarind and sugar (step 2)
Cut 1000 g bitter gourds in half lengthwise, scrape out all the seeds, and coat thoroughly with salt. Set them in a tilted roasting tray for 30 minutes to purge bitter juices.
In a wide, heavy pot, bring 500 ml water to a rapid boil. Stir in 15.6 g tamarind extract, 25.2 g granulated sugar, a pinch of salt, and the poaching spices. Lower the heat to medium, drop in the bitter gourds, and simmer for roughly 5 minutes until tender to the tip of a knife and the liquid is nearly gone. Drain and leave to cool.
To prepare the filling, warm 27 g vegetable oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add the filling cumin and let it crackle for 1 minute. Toss in 24 g finely chopped ginger, 24–30 g chopped garlic, and 24 g chopped green chilli; sauté for 1–2 minutes until the garlic takes on faint colour. Stir in 125 g chopped onion and cook for 2 minutes until translucent. Add 125 g diced potato, 125 g diced carrots, and 0.3 g salt. Sauté over medium heat for 5 minutes, then take the pan off the heat to cool completely.
Fold 2 g chopped coriander leaf and 10.2 g lemon juice into the cooled potato mixture. Pack equal amounts of filling into each poached gourd cavity, then tie securely around the middle with kitchen twine.
Pour vegetable oil to taste for shallow frying into a broad frying pan over medium heat. Fry the stuffed gourds for about 3 minutes, rolling until evenly crisp and lightly browned on all sides. Lift out with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels.
For the sauce, heat 27 g vegetable oil in a heavy pan over medium heat. Drop in the whole sauce spices and fry for 1 minute until popping. Add 2.5–3.8 g curry leaf and cook for 1 minute until the spluttering ceases. Add 150 g chopped onion and fry for about 5 minutes to a light golden shade. Stir in the ginger and garlic pastes, cooking for 1 minute until their raw liquid evaporates.
Mix the ground sauce spices with 2 tablespoons of water to form a loose slurry. Tip this into the pan and stir-fry for 1 minute until the water cooks off. Stir in 400 g puréed tomato along with a pinch of salt, then fry for roughly 5 minutes until beads of red oil separate on top.
Pour 500 ml water into the pan and bring it to a boil. Adjust the heat to medium-high and simmer uncovered for 8–10 minutes until the gravy reduces by half. Gently lay in the fried bitter gourds and 25.2 g granulated sugar, return to a boil, then drop the heat to low and simmer gently for 2–3 minutes. Taste, adjust salt if needed, and remove from the heat.
Steep a tiny pinch (0.1 g per 2 g turmeric) in 2 tbsp warm water; use to match the rich golden hue. Contributes an aristocratic, honeyed floral flavour rather than earthy bitterness.
Use 15% to 20% of the weight (about 1 g for every 5 to 6 g fresh cloves). Whisk into sauces; gives a savoury, toasted garlic flavour without raw pungency.
Use 80% of the weight, finely shredded and browned slowly with a pinch of asafoetida. Replicates the bulk and natural sweetness in gravies without allium.
Use the same weight; peel and cut as for carrot. It is less sweet and slightly peppery, so add a pinch of sugar and expect a softer, more earthy result.
Use the same weight. The seeds are smaller and hotter; fry in hot oil until they pop, about 20–30 seconds, and reduce the heat if they darken too fast. The dish will be a little sharper.
Use 70% of the weight of whole seed, added with the other ground spices rather than fried whole. You lose the popping texture and the heat comes through more evenly.
Use 50% of the weight and stir in near the end of cooking. Adds warmth and depth since it contains ground coriander, but introduces stronger spices like clove and cinnamon.
Use 40% to 50% of the fresh tomato weight mixed with a splash of water. Imparts a deeper red colour, thicker sauce, and slightly sweeter cooked flavour.