
Magaj Masala
A rich and tender curry of lamb brains simmered in a velvety sauce of spiced yoghurt and cashew nut paste. The dish is mild, creamy, and deeply aromatic with warming whole and ground spices.
Poaching whole spices
18 gAdded to the poaching water (step 2)Spices for the yoghurt paste
235 gWhisked into the yoghurt (step 3)Garlic paste
9 gFried in the ghee (step 4)Ginger paste
18 gAdded after the onions (step 4)Ground sauce spices
7 gSprinkled into the simmering sauce (step 6)Everything else
Method
- Place 8 brains in a dish, submerge them in 517 g milk and 3 tbsp brandy or rum, and refrigerate overnight.
- Bring a large pan of water to a boil with the poaching whole spices, 10.2 g lemon juice, and a pinch of salt. Drain the soaked brains, drop them into the boiling water, and cook for 2 minutes. Lift the brains out and set aside.
- Whisk 127 g plain yogurt with the spices for the yoghurt paste in a bowl until thoroughly combined.
- Heat 79.2 g ghee in a heavy pot over medium heat. Add the garlic paste (9.1 g) and fry for 1 to 2 minutes until lightly golden. Add 250 g onion and cook for roughly 2 minutes until soft and translucent, then stir in the ginger paste (18.2 g) and 12–18 g green chilli for a few seconds.
- Pour in the prepared yoghurt paste and stir-fry for 2 to 3 minutes until the fat separates. Mix in 31.2 g cashew paste and continue frying for another 2 to 3 minutes until oil beads on the surface again.
- Pour in 500 ml water and bring to a boil. Turn the heat down to low, sprinkle in the ground sauce spices, and add salt to taste. Cover and simmer gently for 20 minutes.
- Add the drained brains to the sauce. Stir-fry gently, cutting the brains into pieces with the side of your spatula, until thoroughly coated and heated through.
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Lamb brain

Sheep brainUse the same weight; clean and blanch as usual and cook very gently, as for lamb brain.

Ghee

Unsalted butterUse 120% of the weight; melt gently over low heat to avoid burning the milk solids, which will yield a softer, creamier richness rather than a nutty aroma.
Vegetable oilUse 85% of the weight; holds high cooking temperatures without smoking, but the final dish will lack traditional dairy depth.
Mustard oilUse equal weight; heat to smoking point and cool slightly before cooking, bearing in mind it introduces an assertive, pungent edge.

Garlic paste

GarlicUse equal weight; crush or finely grate to a smooth pulp to replicate the same fresh, pungent moisture in your base gravy.
Garlic powderUse 20 to 25% of the weight; mix with a teaspoon of water before adding to oil so it does not burn, noting it lacks the fresh bite.

Onion


Ginger paste

Fresh gingerUse equal weight; peel and grate very finely on a microplane or pound to a fine paste in a mortar.
GingerUse equal weight; mince finely and crush with the flat of a knife before frying.
Ground gingerUse 20% of the weight; add directly with the dry spice powders, though it yields an earthier, less pungent profile.

Green chilli

Chilli powderUse 10 to 15% of the weight (about 1/4 teaspoon per chilli); imparts dry pungent heat and reddens the dish without the grassy crunch.
Dried red chilliUse 1 dried pod per fresh green chilli; snap in half and temper in hot oil for a deeper, toastier heat.

Cashew paste

Cashew nutUse 100% of the weight. Soak raw cashews in boiling water for 20 minutes, then blend with just enough water to form a silky, thick paste.
AlmondUse 100% of the weight. Blanch, peel skins completely, and blend with warm water until velvety; gravies will be marginally less sweet.
Single creamUse 80% of the weight. Stir in near the end of cooking over low heat; provides luxurious gloss and fat without the nut solids.

Ground green cardamom

Green cardamom seedGrind freshly extracted inner black seeds finely; use equal weight (1:1). Greatly superior aroma with potent eucalyptus and citrus notes.
Green cardamom podLightly crack whole pods and simmer them in the gravy; use 150% of the weight of ground cardamom. Fish out the pods before serving.
Ground nutmegUse 50% of the weight. Delivers warm, sweet aroma, but lacks cardamom's cooling, citrusy top notes.

Ground black cumin

Black cumin seedGrind the same weight freshly; the aroma fades quickly, so use it soon.
Ground cuminUse the same weight; it is earthier and less smoky, so the dish will taste slightly different.
Ground caraway seedUse about 70% of the weight; it is more pungent and slightly sweeter.

Ground cinnamon

Ground Ceylon cinnamonMilder and sweeter than ground cassia: use about 1.5 times the weight.
Cassia bark (Chinese cinnamon)Grind the same weight of cassia bark in a spice mill until powdery, or simmer a piece whole and lift it out before serving.
Ground maceUse 40 to 50% of the weight; offers a delicate, sweet, woodsy fragrance that complements rich curries without dominating.

Ground clove

Ground allspiceUse 1.5–2 times the weight; it has a similar warm pungency but is milder and rounder, so the dish loses clove’s sharp medicinal heat.
Ground cinnamon (cassia)Use the same weight; it gives warmth but is sweeter and lacks clove’s strength, so use only if the amount is small.

Ground fennel seed

Fennel seedGrind whole seeds finely; use equal weight (1:1). Provides a fresh, sweet, aniseed aroma that is slightly stronger than pre-ground powder.
AniseedGrind finely; use 75% to 80% of the weight. Has a sharper, sweeter liquorice taste with less of fennel's herbal earthiness.
Star aniseGrind whole star anise finely; use 30% to 40% of the weight. Very potent aniseed flavour that easily overpowers a dish if not used sparingly.

Plain yogurt

YogurtUse equal weight, whisked thoroughly until smooth before adding to hot dishes to prevent curdling.
Coconut milkUse equal weight with 1 teaspoon lemon juice mixed in. Provides rich creaminess in curries, but adds a noticeable coconut flavour.
Single creamUse 80% of the weight plus a squeeze of lemon juice for acidity. Enriches sauces nicely, though it is richer and less tangy.

Ground coriander

Coriander seedsDry-roast lightly in a pan and grind to a fine powder; use equal weight (1:1). Offers a noticeably fresher, brighter citrus note.
Ground cuminUse 50% to 75% of the weight. Lacks the floral, citrusy profile of coriander and turns the gravy heavier, earthier, and darker.
Garam masalaUse 50% of the weight and stir in near the end of cooking. Adds warmth and depth since it contains ground coriander, but introduces stronger spices like clove and cinnamon.

Chilli powder

Red chilli powderUse 100% of the weight. Provides direct, sharp heat and red colour in equal measure.
Kashmiri chilli powderUse 150% to 200% of the weight if matching colour, but add a pinch of black pepper or hot chilli if you need equivalent fiery heat.
Cayenne pepperUse 75% to 100% of the weight. Offers a sharp, clean heat with slightly less earthy depth and less crimson colour.

Ground turmeric

Ground gingerUse 50% of the weight. Mimics turmeric's warm, earthy, rhizome background, but provides none of the golden-yellow colour.
SaffronSteep a tiny pinch (0.1 g per 2 g turmeric) in 2 tbsp warm water; use to match the rich golden hue. Contributes an aristocratic, honeyed floral flavour rather than earthy bitterness.

Milk

Whole milkUse equal weight; provides the standard rich dairy fat and body expected in creamy Indian bases.
Single creamDilute 3 parts cream with 1 part water to match the weight; yields a richer, glossier gravy that resists curdling.
Plain yogurtWhisk thoroughly and use equal weight; adds extra body and a mild pleasant acidity, best added off the heat.

Brandy or rum

Dark rumUse the same weight as brandy; it is sweeter, so reduce any added sugar slightly.
Coconut liquorUse 70–75% of the weight; it is pungent and strong, so add it off the heat and adjust sugar.
Rice beer or rice wineUse the same weight; it is lower in alcohol and more sour, so reduce other liquids slightly and taste for sugar.

Black cardamom pod

Ground black cardamomUse 0.5 g of ground seeds for each whole pod. Stir directly into the curry base; delivers identical smoky flavour without woody husks.
Green cardamom podUse equal pod count or weight. Crack slightly and fry whole; tastes sweet, menthol-fresh, and floral rather than dark and smoky.

Clove

Ground clovesUse 1 g ground for 4 g whole (or 1 small pinch per 2 to 3 whole cloves). Add with spice powders; disperses intense warmth quickly, so use with restraint.
Allspice berriesUse 100% of the weight whole in tempering. Imparts a warm, clove-like aromatic profile combined with hints of nutmeg and cinnamon.
Black cardamom podUse 1 pod for 3 to 4 cloves in whole tempering. Shares a camphor-like warmth and medicinal depth, though it introduces a distinct smoky undertone.

Cassia bark

Ceylon cinnamonTrue cinnamon: thinner, papery quills, milder and sweeter. Use about 1.5 times the weight, and taste.
Ground cinnamon (cassia)Use about a third of the weight (0.5 g ground for a 2.5 cm piece), stirred in with the ground spices rather than fried whole, since the powder burns quickly.
Cassia budsUse 60-70% of the weight; stronger and more peppery, so taste before adding more.

Bay leaf

Cinnamon stickUse a 2 cm piece (about 1 g) for every 1 to 2 bay leaves. Fry in whole-spice temperings; provides the cassia-like warmth typical of Indian tejpatta.
Ground cinnamon (cassia)Use 0.5 g per leaf. Stir into the sauce during simmering; gives the same warm woodiness but darkens the colour slightly.

Cumin seed

Ground cuminUse 70% of the weight; add with ground spices or sauce bases rather than hot oil tempering, where it scorches quickly and turns bitter.
Black cumin seedsUse equal weight for oil tempering. Delivers an earthy profile with an additional musky, smoky, and slightly bitter edge.
Fennel seedUse 60% of the weight for tempering; offers comparable warm aroma, but leans sweet and liquorice-like rather than savoury and earthy.

Fenugreek seed

Mustard seedUse 50% of the weight, crush or grind. Sharper heat and less maple-bitter; fry briefly in oil before adding.
Caraway seedsUse the same weight, crush lightly. Similar bitter-seed note but more aniseed; reduce other sweet spices slightly.
Ajwain seedsUse 25–30% of the weight, crush. Much stronger thyme-like flavour; do not overdo.

Lemon juice

Lime juiceUse equal volume or weight; delivers almost identical sharp acidity with a faintly more aromatic, bitter-edged profile.
Dried mango powderUse 25% of the weight (about 1 g amchoor for 4 g juice); provides clean fruity tartness without thinning the sauce.
White vinegarUse 75% of the volume; gives direct sourness without any citrus floral fragrance.

Ginger julienne

Fresh gingerUse the same weight; peel and cut into fine matchsticks. This is the direct replacement and keeps the texture.
Ginger pasteUse the same weight, but it will not give visible strands or crunch; stir in at the end for flavour only.
Ground gingerUse about one-quarter of the weight, e.g. 1 g ground for 4 g julienne. Mix in; gives ginger heat but no texture or fresh aroma.
Similar dishes

- Same: Bhuna Gosht (II) shares an onion, ginger, and garlic base seasoned with coriander, turmeric, chilli powder, black cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, and bay leaves.
- Different: Bhuna Gosht (II) slow-roasts cut lamb in vegetable oil into a dry reduction, omitting this dish's brains, ghee, milk, yogurt, cashew paste, lemon juice, and green chillies.

- Same: Both dishes build their gravies from onions, ginger, garlic, and yogurt seasoned with turmeric, chilli, coriander, black cardamom, cloves, and cinnamon.
- Different: Nahari slow-cooks lamb meat in pungent mustard oil and thickens the stew with roasted chickpea flour, whereas this dish gently cooks lamb brains in ghee with milk, cashew nut paste, and lemon juice.

- Same: Both dishes slow-simmer lamb in a spiced base of ghee, onions, ginger, garlic, and yogurt with whole spices like black cardamom, cloves, and cinnamon.
- Different: Dahi ka Keema uses minced lamb instead of brains, incorporates peanut oil alongside ghee, and omits the milk, cashew paste, lemon juice, turmeric, and fennel while using far more green chillies.

- Same: Both dishes simmer meat in ghee with a sauce enriched by yogurt and milk, seasoned with cumin, black cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, and turmeric.
- Different: Makki ka Soweta uses standard lamb meat, sweetcorn, chickpea flour, and fried onion paste, omitting the lamb brains, cashew paste, ginger, and fenugreek seeds found in this dish.
















































