A richly spiced, slow-cooked lamb dish where meat is browned and roasted in concentrated aromatics to produce a thick, clinging sauce with a deep, savoury flavour.
Ground spices
14 gMixed with water and fried with the onions (step 3)
Warm 114 g vegetable oil in a large, heavy pan set over medium heat, then tip in the whole spices and 1 teaspoon black peppercorns, frying for roughly 1 minute until sizzling and fragrant.
Tumble in 300 g sliced onion and cook for 5 to 7 minutes until richly browned.
Add the ginger and garlic pastes, the ground spices paste, and salt to taste, stirring continuously for 1 to 2 minutes.
Add 1000 g lamb and fry for around 30 minutes, turning regularly and splashing in a trickle of water if the bottom starts to stick.
Pour in 250 ml hot water, bring to a boil, then turn down the heat and gently simmer for 15 minutes until the gravy thickens.
Raise the heat and roast the meat, stirring steadily, until the oil separates and floats to the top, then remove from the heat.
Use 50% of the weight and stir in near the end of cooking. Adds warmth and depth since it contains ground coriander, but introduces stronger spices like clove and cinnamon.
Steep a tiny pinch (0.1 g per 2 g turmeric) in 2 tbsp warm water; use to match the rich golden hue. Contributes an aristocratic, honeyed floral flavour rather than earthy bitterness.
Use 1 g ground for 4 g whole (or 1 small pinch per 2 to 3 whole cloves). Add with spice powders; disperses intense warmth quickly, so use with restraint.
Allspice berries
Use 100% of the weight whole in tempering. Imparts a warm, clove-like aromatic profile combined with hints of nutmeg and cinnamon.
Use about a third of the weight (0.5 g ground for a 2.5 cm piece), stirred in with the ground spices rather than fried whole, since the powder burns quickly.
Use 80% of the weight, finely shredded and browned slowly with a pinch of asafoetida. Replicates the bulk and natural sweetness in gravies without allium.