A spicy Konkani chicken curry with a thick coconut-onion base and a deeply toasted spice blend. It tastes hot, tangy and rich, with lime cutting through the coconut.
Serves4(the book: 4)
Ground spice mix
38 gToasted and ground before cooking, then stirred in at step 7
Put 9 g dried kashmiri chilli, 1.4 g black peppercorn, 10.2 g coriander seeds, 2.4 g star anise, 0.4 g clove, 1.8 g black mustard seed, 2.6 g cinnamon stick, 1.1 g caraway seeds, 1.1 g cumin seed, 6 g fennel seed and 2.2 g ground nutmeg into a wide frying pan. Set over medium heat and toss for 8–10 minutes until the spices darken and smell toasted.
Slide the spices onto a plate and leave until cool. Grind in a spice grinder to a fine powder; set aside.
Put 150 g coconut in the same pan with no oil over low heat. Toast for 15–20 minutes, stirring, until light brown and a little drier. Move to a plate.
Add 13.5 g vegetable oil to the pan. Add 250 g white onion, 12 g garlic, 5 g ginger and 1.8 g coriander leaves and stems. Stir and fry over medium heat for 10 minutes until softened and lightly coloured. Let cool.
Put the cooled onion mixture, toasted coconut and 149 g water in a blender. Blend to a smooth, fine paste.
Heat 40.5 g vegetable oil in a large heavy saucepan over medium heat. Add the coconut paste and fry for 2–3 minutes.
Stir in 2.6 g kashmiri chilli powder, 3 g ground turmeric and the ground spice mix. Fry for 1 minute, stirring.
Raise the heat a little. Add 800 g skinless chicken on the bone, jointed, and turn for 5 minutes to coat and seal. Season with salt to taste.
Pour in 398 g water. Boil, then cover and simmer over low heat for 25 minutes, stirring once halfway.
Add 101 g coconut milk and simmer for 5 minutes more, until the curry thickens slightly.
Stir in 30.6 g lime juice. Scatter extra coriander leaves and stems over the top.
Steep a tiny pinch (0.1 g per 2 g turmeric) in 2 tbsp warm water; use to match the rich golden hue. Contributes an aristocratic, honeyed floral flavour rather than earthy bitterness.
Use equal weight; simmer gently over low heat to prevent curdling. Imparts a comparable rich texture, though it adds dairy richness without any coconut fragrance.
Use 15% to 20% of the weight (about 1 g for every 5 to 6 g fresh cloves). Whisk into sauces; gives a savoury, toasted garlic flavour without raw pungency.
Use 20% to 25% of the weight (1 g for every 4 to 5 g fresh). Stir into the gravy; adds peppery heat and warmth, though it misses the crisp, zesty kick of raw root.
Use 1 g powder for every 1.5 g whole dried chilli; whisk with a spoonful of warm water and stir into the masala to provide identical ruby colour and mild heat.
Use 1 g ground for 4 g whole (or 1 small pinch per 2 to 3 whole cloves). Add with spice powders; disperses intense warmth quickly, so use with restraint.
Allspice berries
Use 100% of the weight whole in tempering. Imparts a warm, clove-like aromatic profile combined with hints of nutmeg and cinnamon.
Use about a third of the weight (0.5 g ground for a 2.5 cm piece), stirred in with the ground spices rather than fried whole, since the powder burns quickly.
Grate whole nutmeg finely on a microplane; use 80% to 100% of the weight. Freshly grated nutmeg has significantly more aromatic oils and a more vibrant aroma.
Use 100% to 120% of the weight. Mace is nutmeg's outer husk, providing almost identical warmth but with a lighter, slightly more delicate, floral edge.