Lamb Curry with Mustard Oil, Turmeric, Chilli and Ahuna Masala
Non-vegetarianOrigin North
Bihari ahuna mutton is a slow-cooked bone-in lamb curry with mustard oil, onion and a toasted ahuna masala. It tastes deep and savoury, with gentle chilli heat and a warm whole-spice aroma.
Serves4(the book: 4)
Marinade spices
7 gMixed into the mustard-oil and onion marinade (step 3)
Heat 40.5 g mustard oil in a small frying pan over high heat until it just smokes, then take the pan off the heat and let the oil cool.
Make the ahuna masala: warm 1.4 g black peppercorn, 2.1 g cumin seed, 0.5 g cinnamon stick, 5.1 g coriander seeds, 2 g fennel seed, 0.3 g clove, 1.1 g green cardamom pod seeds and 0.2 g mace blade in an ungreased frying pan on low heat for 5 minutes, moving the pan regularly. Take off the heat, add 8.4 g white poppy seeds and 12 g roasted split gram, cool, then grind to a powder.
In a large bowl, mix the cooled mustard oil, 250 g thinly sliced onion, the marinade spices (1.5 g dried kashmiri chilli, 2.6 g kashmiri chilli powder, 1.5 g ground turmeric and 1.1 g ground nutmeg) and the ahuna masala. Add 700 g diced bone-in lamb shoulder and turn until coated. Cover and marinate for 1 hour, or overnight in the refrigerator.
Heat 27 g vegetable oil in a large non-stick saucepan over medium heat. Add the whole spices and garlic for the oil (0.6 g dried bay leaf, 5.7 g black cardamom pod and 18 g roughly crushed garlic); let the bay and cardamom sizzle, then fry the garlic for a few seconds.
Add the marinated lamb and all the marinade to the pan and cook for 6 minutes, turning the lamb to brown it.
Lower the heat and set the saucepan inside a frying pan or tawa so it does not sit directly on the flame. Add salt to taste, cover and cook for 1 hour 15 minutes, stirring now and then so the curry does not catch.
When the lamb is tender, fold in 4 g green bird’s eye chilli, slit lengthways, and coriander leaf to taste; stir once and take off the heat.
Use 80% of the weight, finely shredded and browned slowly with a pinch of asafoetida. Replicates the bulk and natural sweetness in gravies without allium.
Use 1 g powder for every 1.5 g whole dried chilli; whisk with a spoonful of warm water and stir into the masala to provide identical ruby colour and mild heat.
Steep a tiny pinch (0.1 g per 2 g turmeric) in 2 tbsp warm water; use to match the rich golden hue. Contributes an aristocratic, honeyed floral flavour rather than earthy bitterness.
Grate whole nutmeg finely on a microplane; use 80% to 100% of the weight. Freshly grated nutmeg has significantly more aromatic oils and a more vibrant aroma.
Use 100% to 120% of the weight. Mace is nutmeg's outer husk, providing almost identical warmth but with a lighter, slightly more delicate, floral edge.
Use about a third of the weight (0.5 g ground for a 2.5 cm piece), stirred in with the ground spices rather than fried whole, since the powder burns quickly.
Use 1 g ground for 4 g whole (or 1 small pinch per 2 to 3 whole cloves). Add with spice powders; disperses intense warmth quickly, so use with restraint.
Allspice berries
Use 100% of the weight whole in tempering. Imparts a warm, clove-like aromatic profile combined with hints of nutmeg and cinnamon.
Use the same weight and dry-roast it yourself in a heavy pan over low heat until golden and nutty, then cool and grind if needed. Same flavour but extra step.