Indian cooking
Indian cooking / Spice mixtures / Bihari Ahuna Mutton

Bihari Ahuna Mutton

Lamb Curry with Mustard Oil, Turmeric, Chilli and Ahuna Masala
Non-vegetarianOrigin North

Bihari ahuna mutton is a slow-cooked bone-in lamb curry with mustard oil, onion and a toasted ahuna masala. It tastes deep and savoury, with gentle chilli heat and a warm whole-spice aroma.

Serves4(the book: 4)

Marinade spices

7 gMixed into the mustard-oil and onion marinade (step 3)
Keep as weighed; stir into the cooled mustard oil with the onions before the lamb goes in.

Whole spices and garlic for the oil

25 gAdded to the hot vegetable oil at the start of cooking (step 4)
01
1.5 g3 leaves
spice
03
Garlic clove · Lehsunroughly crushed
18 g6 cloves
aromatic
Keep the bay and cardamom whole and crush the garlic; add bay and cardamom first, then garlic once they sizzle.

Ahuna masala

32 gGround and mixed into the lamb marinade (step 3)
01
1.4 g½ teaspoon
spice
02
2.1 g1 teaspoon
spice
04
5 g1 tablespoon
spice
05
2 g1 teaspoon
spice
06
0.3 g4 cloves
spice
07
1.1 g6 pods
spice
08
0.2 g1 blade
spice
09
8 g1 tablespoon
nut/seed
Warm all the spices except the poppy seeds and split gram, add those off the heat, cool, then grind to a powder.

Finishing herbs

0 gFolded in at the end with the green chilli (step 7)
01
to taste
herb
Chop the coriander leaf and keep it ready to stir in once the lamb is tender.

Everything else

01
40 g3 tablespoons
oil/fat
02
Onion · Pyazthinly sliced
250 g
vegetable
03
Lamb shoulder · Dastdiced into bite-size pieces
700 g
meat
04
27 g2 tablespoons
oil/fat
05
3 g2 chillies
vegetable
06
to taste
salt

Method

  1. Heat 40.5 g mustard oil in a small frying pan over high heat until it just smokes, then take the pan off the heat and let the oil cool.
  2. Make the ahuna masala: warm 1.4 g black peppercorn, 2.1 g cumin seed, 0.5 g cinnamon stick, 5.1 g coriander seeds, 2 g fennel seed, 0.3 g clove, 1.1 g green cardamom pod seeds and 0.2 g mace blade in an ungreased frying pan on low heat for 5 minutes, moving the pan regularly. Take off the heat, add 8.4 g white poppy seeds and 12 g roasted split gram, cool, then grind to a powder.
  3. In a large bowl, mix the cooled mustard oil, 250 g thinly sliced onion, the marinade spices (1.5 g dried kashmiri chilli, 2.6 g kashmiri chilli powder, 1.5 g ground turmeric and 1.1 g ground nutmeg) and the ahuna masala. Add 700 g diced bone-in lamb shoulder and turn until coated. Cover and marinate for 1 hour, or overnight in the refrigerator.
  4. Heat 27 g vegetable oil in a large non-stick saucepan over medium heat. Add the whole spices and garlic for the oil (0.6 g dried bay leaf, 5.7 g black cardamom pod and 18 g roughly crushed garlic); let the bay and cardamom sizzle, then fry the garlic for a few seconds.
  5. Add the marinated lamb and all the marinade to the pan and cook for 6 minutes, turning the lamb to brown it.
  6. Lower the heat and set the saucepan inside a frying pan or tawa so it does not sit directly on the flame. Add salt to taste, cover and cook for 1 hour 15 minutes, stirring now and then so the curry does not catch.
  7. When the lamb is tender, fold in 4 g green bird’s eye chilli, slit lengthways, and coriander leaf to taste; stir once and take off the heat.

Make it vegan

Instead of Lamb shoulder

  • Young jackfruit

    Use 90% of the meat weight, fried briefly in ghee; holds up beautifully to prolonged 30-minute braising without disintegrating.

  • Dried chickpea

    Use 40% of the meat weight dry; soak overnight, boil until tender, then simmer in the spiced gravy for 20 minutes.

  • Potato

    Use 80% of the meat weight, peeled and halved; add halfway through the sauce cooking time, finishing in 20 minutes.

Don't have something?

Mustard oil
  • Peanut oil

    Use equal weight. It handles high-heat cooking well, but lacks the signature pungent, nasal heat of mustard oil.

  • Vegetable oil

    Use equal weight. Neutral in flavour, so your curry will lack the characteristic Bengali or North Indian pungent punch.

Onion
  • Shallot

    Use equal weight, finely sliced. Shallots soften and brown faster, giving a slightly sweeter and more delicate base to curries.

  • Cabbage

    Use 80% of the weight, finely shredded and browned slowly with a pinch of asafoetida. Replicates the bulk and natural sweetness in gravies without allium.

Dried kashmiri chilli
  • Kashmiri chilli powder

    Use 1 g powder for every 1.5 g whole dried chilli; whisk with a spoonful of warm water and stir into the masala to provide identical ruby colour and mild heat.

  • Dried red chilli

    Use 35% to 40% of the weight; discard seeds before tearing into oil to temper. Delivers a much fiercer heat, with significantly less red colouring.

Kashmiri chilli powder
  • Dried kashmiri chilli

    Grind deseeded dried pods to an equal weight of powder; gives identical vivid red colour and gentle warmth.

  • Red chilli powder

    Use 25% of the weight mixed with sweet paprika for colour; straight red chilli powder is substantially hotter and will make the dish fiery.

  • Chilli powder

    Use one-third of the weight; the sauce will be less intensely red and notably sharper in heat.

Ground turmeric
  • Ground ginger

    Use 50% of the weight. Mimics turmeric's warm, earthy, rhizome background, but provides none of the golden-yellow colour.

  • Saffron

    Steep a tiny pinch (0.1 g per 2 g turmeric) in 2 tbsp warm water; use to match the rich golden hue. Contributes an aristocratic, honeyed floral flavour rather than earthy bitterness.

Ground nutmeg
  • Nutmeg

    Grate whole nutmeg finely on a microplane; use 80% to 100% of the weight. Freshly grated nutmeg has significantly more aromatic oils and a more vibrant aroma.

  • Ground mace

    Use 100% to 120% of the weight. Mace is nutmeg's outer husk, providing almost identical warmth but with a lighter, slightly more delicate, floral edge.

  • Ground cinnamon (cassia)

    Use 75% of the weight. Adds comparable warmth and sweetness, though it lacks the musky, nutty undertone of nutmeg.

Lamb shoulder
  • Lamb

    Use equal weight of diced lamb leg; cooks 15 minutes faster but has less gelatinous richness in slow braises.

  • Pork

    Use equal weight of pork shoulder; slow-cooks in roughly three-quarters of the time and produces a slightly sweeter gravy.

Vegetable oil
  • Peanut oil

    Use 1:1 by weight. Handles high-heat frying identically and introduces a very subtle, pleasant nuttiness.

  • Ghee

    Use 1:1 by weight. Yields a much richer, authentic aroma and a glossy, heavier mouthfeel.

  • Mustard oil

    Use 1:1 by weight. Heat until smoking, then cool slightly before cooking to temper its intensely pungent, sharp mustard kick.

Bay leaf
  • Cinnamon stick

    Use a 2 cm piece (about 1 g) for every 1 to 2 bay leaves. Fry in whole-spice temperings; provides the cassia-like warmth typical of Indian tejpatta.

  • Ground cinnamon (cassia)

    Use 0.5 g per leaf. Stir into the sauce during simmering; gives the same warm woodiness but darkens the colour slightly.

Black cardamom pod
  • Ground black cardamom

    Use 0.5 g of ground seeds for each whole pod. Stir directly into the curry base; delivers identical smoky flavour without woody husks.

  • Green cardamom pod

    Use equal pod count or weight. Crack slightly and fry whole; tastes sweet, menthol-fresh, and floral rather than dark and smoky.

Garlic clove
  • Garlic paste

    Use the same weight; about 1 clove weighs 3 g, so 3 g paste per clove.

  • Crushed garlic

    Use the same weight; crush just before adding so the flavour stays fresh.

  • Garlic powder

    Use one-third of the weight, about 1 g powder for 3 g fresh clove; add a little water if the recipe needs moisture.

Green bird's eye chilli
  • Bird's eye green chilli

    Use the same weight; heat and flavour are very close.

  • Green chilli

    Use 1.5 to 2 times the weight; deseed for less heat. Larger chillies are more watery.

  • Fresh green chilli

    Use 1.5 to 2 times the weight; chop finely and adjust heat by tasting.

Coriander leaf
  • Coriander

    Use equal weight finely chopped; this is the exact same fresh herb.

  • Mint

    Use half the weight finely chopped; provides vibrant green freshness, though the flavour profile becomes noticeably cooler and sharper.

Black peppercorn
  • Coarsely ground black pepper

    Use 75% of the weight. Add midway through simmering; spreads heat evenly through the dish instead of delivering isolated bursts.

  • Ground black pepper

    Use 50% of the weight. Stir in near the end of cooking; significantly darkens light gravies and provides an immediate, sharp bite.

Cumin seed
  • Ground cumin

    Use 70% of the weight; add with ground spices or sauce bases rather than hot oil tempering, where it scorches quickly and turns bitter.

  • Black cumin seeds

    Use equal weight for oil tempering. Delivers an earthy profile with an additional musky, smoky, and slightly bitter edge.

  • Fennel seed

    Use 60% of the weight for tempering; offers comparable warm aroma, but leans sweet and liquorice-like rather than savoury and earthy.

Cassia bark
  • Ceylon cinnamon

    True cinnamon: thinner, papery quills, milder and sweeter. Use about 1.5 times the weight, and taste.

  • Ground cinnamon (cassia)

    Use about a third of the weight (0.5 g ground for a 2.5 cm piece), stirred in with the ground spices rather than fried whole, since the powder burns quickly.

  • Cassia buds

    Use 60-70% of the weight; stronger and more peppery, so taste before adding more.

Coriander seeds
  • Ground coriander

    Use 75% of the weight; stir in along with wet masala or tomato purée rather than frying in hot oil, as the fine powder burns instantly.

  • Cumin seed

    Use 50% of the weight for tempering in hot oil. Lacks the floral, sweet citrus flavour of coriander, introducing warm, pungent earthiness instead.

  • Fennel seed

    Use 50% of the weight in tempering; provides pleasant aromatic sweetness, though noticeably aniseedy rather than citrusy.

Fennel seed
  • Aniseed

    Use 75% of the weight. Fry in hot oil or ghee; has a sharper, more pronounced liquorice flavour, so use a lighter hand.

  • Ground fennel seed

    Use 60% of the weight. Stir into the sauce with ground masalas; provides identical sweet aniseed flavour without whole seed crunch.

  • Star anise

    Use one point (single carpel) per 1 g of fennel seeds. Simmer in gravies and remove before serving; gives a deeper, woodier liquorice aroma.

Clove
  • Ground cloves

    Use 1 g ground for 4 g whole (or 1 small pinch per 2 to 3 whole cloves). Add with spice powders; disperses intense warmth quickly, so use with restraint.

  • Allspice berries

    Use 100% of the weight whole in tempering. Imparts a warm, clove-like aromatic profile combined with hints of nutmeg and cinnamon.

  • Black cardamom pod

    Use 1 pod for 3 to 4 cloves in whole tempering. Shares a camphor-like warmth and medicinal depth, though it introduces a distinct smoky undertone.

Green cardamom pod
  • Green cardamom seed

    Use 35 to 40% of the total pod weight; lightly bruise the seeds before frying in oil to release their essential oils.

  • Ground green cardamom

    Use 20 to 25% of the pod weight (about 1 generous pinch per pod); stir in toward the end of cooking so the delicate floral notes do not dissipate.

  • White cardamom pod

    Use 1:1 by pod count or weight; crack gently before using, though it is slightly less intensely floral.

Mace blade
  • Ground mace

    Use 0.5 g ground mace for 1 g mace blade; add towards the end of frying spices as ground powder burns much quicker than whole blades.

  • Nutmeg

    Grate finely, using 50% of the weight; sweeter, deeper, and slightly heavier in aroma than delicate mace.

  • Ground nutmeg

    Use 40% of the weight; stir in gently with ground spices, avoiding high direct heat to prevent bitterness.

White poppy seeds
  • Poppy seed

    Use the same weight; grey seeds make a darker paste but taste close.

  • White sesame seed

    Use the same weight, lightly toasted; the paste is nuttier and less thickening.

  • Cashew nut paste

    For 10 g poppy seeds use about 15 g cashew nut paste; it thickens more, so reduce other thickeners.

Dry-roasted chana dal
  • Chana dal

    Use the same weight and dry-roast it yourself in a heavy pan over low heat until golden and nutty, then cool and grind if needed. Same flavour but extra step.

  • Roasted mung bean

    Use the same weight. Milder and smaller, so the dish is less nutty and slightly less sweet.

  • Fried split chickpeas

    Use the same weight, but it is oilier and richer. Reduce added oil in the recipe and crush or grind as needed.

Similar spice mixtures

Punjabi Bhuna Gosht
Slow-cooked Lamb with Garlic, Chilli and Garam Masala
Punjabi Bhuna Gosht tastes rich and gently spicy with a yoghurt tang and fresh ginger lift, while this dish tastes deeper and savoury with mustard-oil pungency, chilli heat and warm whole-spice aroma.
  • Same: Punjabi Bhuna Gosht shares bone-in lamb shoulder, onion, garlic, Kashmiri chilli powder, turmeric, black cardamom, cumin seed, clove, bay leaf and coriander leaf with this dish, and both are slow-cooked.
  • Different: Punjabi Bhuna Gosht uses vegetable oil only, fresh ginger, ground coriander, Greek yoghurt and water, while this dish uses mustard oil plus vegetable oil and a toasted ahuna masala of coriander seeds, fennel, poppy seeds, roasted split gram, mace, green cardamom and nutmeg, with dried Kashmiri chilli and green bird’s eye chilli; it gets tang from yoghurt, while this dish has no yoghurt or other souring agent.
Parsi Margi Ma Kari
Spicy Chicken Curry with Dried Chillies, Garlic and a Classic Parsi Masala
Parsi Margi Ma Kari tastes hot, tangy and lightly sweet with a thick coconut-rich sauce, while this dish tastes deep and savoury with gentle chilli heat and warm whole-spice aroma.
  • Same: Parsi Margi Ma Kari shares onion, garlic, Kashmiri chilli, turmeric, coriander seeds, poppy seeds, roasted split gram, cinnamon, green cardamom, clove, coriander leaf and salt with this dish.
  • Different: Parsi Margi Ma Kari uses skinless chicken, vegetable oil, tomato purée, water, jaggery, white wine vinegar, coconut cream, sesame seeds and desiccated coconut, while this dish uses bone-in lamb, mustard oil, black cardamom, nutmeg, mace, fennel, cumin, bay leaf and green bird’s eye chilli.
Konkani Kombdi Masala
Spicy Chicken Curry with Coconut & Chilli
Konkani Kombdi Masala tastes hot, tangy and rich from coconut and lime, while this dish tastes deep and savoury from mustard oil and lamb with gentle chilli heat and warm whole-spice aroma.
  • Same: Konkani Kombdi Masala and this dish are both bone-in curries built on onion, garlic, Kashmiri chilli powder and turmeric, with toasted whole spices such as coriander, cumin, fennel, black peppercorn, cinnamon and clove.
  • Different: Konkani Kombdi Masala uses chicken, coconut, coconut milk and lime juice, plus ginger, star anise, caraway and black mustard seed, while this dish uses lamb, mustard oil, poppy seeds, roasted split gram, cardamom and mace and is slow-cooked ahuna style.
Garam Masala (II)
Garam Masala (II) tastes warm, floral and aromatic rather than savoury, while this dish tastes deep and savoury with mustard oil richness and gentle chilli heat.
  • Same: Garam Masala (II) shares with this dish a whole-spice base of black cardamom, cinnamon, clove, cumin, coriander, fennel, mace, nutmeg, bay leaf and black pepper.
  • Different: Garam Masala (II) is a dry spice blend with dried rose petals, ground ginger and black cumin, while this dish is a slow-cooked bone-in lamb curry with mustard oil, onion, garlic, turmeric, chilli, poppy seeds and roasted split gram.