Slow-cooked lamb shanks in a thick onion, tomato and yoghurt gravy, scented with warm spices and rose water and finished with lemon. The meat turns tender and the sauce rich, tangy and gently aromatic.
Marinade spices
6 gStirred into the garlic-ginger paste for the lamb marinade (step 1)
Blend 24 g garlic, 10 g ginger and about 20 ml water to a smooth paste. Scrape into a large bowl, stir in the marinade spices, then add 1400 g lamb shanks and rub the paste all over. Cover and chill for several hours, or overnight.
Crush the whole spices for the oil coarsely in a mortar. Warm a large heavy pan over medium heat, then add 27 g vegetable oil and 14.1 g butter. Drop in the crushed spices and let them sizzle for a few seconds.
Add 300 g onions and fry for 18–20 minutes, stirring often, until softened and deep brown. Stir in 4 g green bird’s eye chilli, slit lengthways.
Add the ground spices for the sauce and 31.2 g tomato purée. Fry for 1 minute, scraping the pan so the mixture does not catch.
Add the marinated lamb shanks with all their marinade and turn them in the pan for 7–10 minutes to seal evenly. Take the pan off the heat and stir in 60 g Greek yoghurt a spoonful at a time. Return to the heat, pour in 400 ml water and stir to a smooth gravy. Season with salt.
Bring to a boil, cover and simmer for 1 hour 15 minutes, turning the shanks now and then. Stir in the finishing spice and 14.7 g rose water. Simmer with the lid ajar for 20 minutes, until the lamb is tender and the gravy is thick and dark. Taste and add salt.
Scatter over chopped coriander leaves and squeeze in 5.1 g lemon juice.
Use 15% to 20% of the weight (about 1 g for every 5 to 6 g fresh cloves). Whisk into sauces; gives a savoury, toasted garlic flavour without raw pungency.
Use 20% to 25% of the weight (1 g for every 4 to 5 g fresh). Stir into the gravy; adds peppery heat and warmth, though it misses the crisp, zesty kick of raw root.
Use 50% of the weight and stir in near the end of cooking. Adds warmth and depth since it contains ground coriander, but introduces stronger spices like clove and cinnamon.
Use about a third of the weight (0.5 g ground for a 2.5 cm piece), stirred in with the ground spices rather than fried whole, since the powder burns quickly.
Use 1 g ground for 4 g whole (or 1 small pinch per 2 to 3 whole cloves). Add with spice powders; disperses intense warmth quickly, so use with restraint.
Allspice berries
Use 100% of the weight whole in tempering. Imparts a warm, clove-like aromatic profile combined with hints of nutmeg and cinnamon.
Use 80% of the weight, finely shredded and browned slowly with a pinch of asafoetida. Replicates the bulk and natural sweetness in gravies without allium.
Steep a tiny pinch (0.1 g per 2 g turmeric) in 2 tbsp warm water; use to match the rich golden hue. Contributes an aristocratic, honeyed floral flavour rather than earthy bitterness.
Grate whole nutmeg finely on a microplane; use 80% to 100% of the weight. Freshly grated nutmeg has significantly more aromatic oils and a more vibrant aroma.
Use 100% to 120% of the weight. Mace is nutmeg's outer husk, providing almost identical warmth but with a lighter, slightly more delicate, floral edge.