Indian cooking
Indian cooking / Dishes / Nalli Gosht
Nalli Gosht (Spiced Lamb Shanks)

Nalli Gosht

Spiced Lamb Shanks
Non-vegetarianOrigin Mughlai

Slow-cooked lamb shanks in a thick onion, tomato and yoghurt gravy, scented with warm spices and rose water and finished with lemon. The meat turns tender and the sauce rich, tangy and gently aromatic.

Marinade spices

6 gStirred into the garlic-ginger paste for the lamb marinade (step 1)
Mix into the paste before adding the lamb.

Whole spices for the oil

4.7 gCrushed and added to the hot oil and butter (step 2)
01
2.6 g5 cm
spice
03
0.4 g5 cloves
spice
04
0.6 g12 peppercorns
spice
Crush coarsely together.

Ground spices for the sauce

8 gAdded with the tomato purée after the onions darken (step 2)
Keep ground; add together with the tomato purée.

Finishing spice

1.1 gStirred in after the first simmer (step 4)
01
1.1 g½ teaspoon
spice
Keep ground; add with the rose water.

Everything else

01
24 g8 cloves
aromatic
02
10 g2½ cm
aromatic
03
1400 g4 shanks
meat
04
27 g2 tablespoons
oil/fat
05
14 g1 tablespoon
dairy
06
Onion · Pyazthinly sliced
300 g2 onions
vegetable
07
3 g2 chillies
vegetable
08
31 g2 tablespoons
vegetable
09
60 g4 tablespoons
dairy
10
to taste
salt
11
15 g1 tablespoon
liquid
12
to taste
salt
13
to taste
herb
14
5 g1 teaspoon
souring agent

Method

  1. Blend 24 g garlic, 10 g ginger and about 20 ml water to a smooth paste. Scrape into a large bowl, stir in the marinade spices, then add 1400 g lamb shanks and rub the paste all over. Cover and chill for several hours, or overnight.
  2. Crush the whole spices for the oil coarsely in a mortar. Warm a large heavy pan over medium heat, then add 27 g vegetable oil and 14.1 g butter. Drop in the crushed spices and let them sizzle for a few seconds.
  3. Add 300 g onions and fry for 18–20 minutes, stirring often, until softened and deep brown. Stir in 4 g green bird’s eye chilli, slit lengthways.
  4. Add the ground spices for the sauce and 31.2 g tomato purée. Fry for 1 minute, scraping the pan so the mixture does not catch.
  5. Add the marinated lamb shanks with all their marinade and turn them in the pan for 7–10 minutes to seal evenly. Take the pan off the heat and stir in 60 g Greek yoghurt a spoonful at a time. Return to the heat, pour in 400 ml water and stir to a smooth gravy. Season with salt.
  6. Bring to a boil, cover and simmer for 1 hour 15 minutes, turning the shanks now and then. Stir in the finishing spice and 14.7 g rose water. Simmer with the lid ajar for 20 minutes, until the lamb is tender and the gravy is thick and dark. Taste and add salt.
  7. Scatter over chopped coriander leaves and squeeze in 5.1 g lemon juice.

Don't have something?

Garlic
  • Garlic paste

    Use equal weight. Fry gently in oil or ghee with the ginger; incorporates smoothly into curries without visible minced bits.

  • Garlic powder

    Use 15% to 20% of the weight (about 1 g for every 5 to 6 g fresh cloves). Whisk into sauces; gives a savoury, toasted garlic flavour without raw pungency.

  • Shallot

    Use 1.5 times the weight, very finely minced. Sauté until golden; provides savoury allium sweetness, though it lacks garlic's pungent sulphur bite.

Fresh ginger
  • Ginger paste

    Use equal weight. Sauté in hot fat until the raw allium smell disappears; slightly wetter, but provides identical warmth and pungency.

  • Ground ginger

    Use 20% to 25% of the weight (1 g for every 4 to 5 g fresh). Stir into the gravy; adds peppery heat and warmth, though it misses the crisp, zesty kick of raw root.

Kashmiri chilli powder or mild paprika
  • Kashmiri chilli powder

    Use the same weight; this is the first half of the book's option and gives the best red colour with mild heat.

  • Mild paprika

    Use the same weight; add a pinch of cayenne pepper for warmth. Slightly less colour.

  • Paprika

    Use the same weight and add cayenne pepper to taste; works but is less aromatic.

Ground coriander
  • Coriander seeds

    Dry-roast lightly in a pan and grind to a fine powder; use equal weight (1:1). Offers a noticeably fresher, brighter citrus note.

  • Ground cumin

    Use 50% to 75% of the weight. Lacks the floral, citrusy profile of coriander and turns the gravy heavier, earthier, and darker.

  • Garam masala

    Use 50% of the weight and stir in near the end of cooking. Adds warmth and depth since it contains ground coriander, but introduces stronger spices like clove and cinnamon.

Lamb shank
  • Lamb shank and chop

    Use the same weight; the chop cooks faster, so check 20–30 minutes earlier.

  • Lamb leg

    Use the same weight; cut into large chunks. Cooks 20–30 minutes faster and gives less gelatine.

  • Bone-in lamb

    Use the same weight; simmer 30–40 minutes longer. Less gelatine but good body.

Cassia bark
  • Ceylon cinnamon

    True cinnamon: thinner, papery quills, milder and sweeter. Use about 1.5 times the weight, and taste.

  • Ground cinnamon (cassia)

    Use about a third of the weight (0.5 g ground for a 2.5 cm piece), stirred in with the ground spices rather than fried whole, since the powder burns quickly.

  • Cassia buds

    Use 60-70% of the weight; stronger and more peppery, so taste before adding more.

Green cardamom pod
  • Green cardamom seed

    Use 35 to 40% of the total pod weight; lightly bruise the seeds before frying in oil to release their essential oils.

  • Ground green cardamom

    Use 20 to 25% of the pod weight (about 1 generous pinch per pod); stir in toward the end of cooking so the delicate floral notes do not dissipate.

  • White cardamom pod

    Use 1:1 by pod count or weight; crack gently before using, though it is slightly less intensely floral.

Clove
  • Ground cloves

    Use 1 g ground for 4 g whole (or 1 small pinch per 2 to 3 whole cloves). Add with spice powders; disperses intense warmth quickly, so use with restraint.

  • Allspice berries

    Use 100% of the weight whole in tempering. Imparts a warm, clove-like aromatic profile combined with hints of nutmeg and cinnamon.

  • Black cardamom pod

    Use 1 pod for 3 to 4 cloves in whole tempering. Shares a camphor-like warmth and medicinal depth, though it introduces a distinct smoky undertone.

Black peppercorn
  • Coarsely ground black pepper

    Use 75% of the weight. Add midway through simmering; spreads heat evenly through the dish instead of delivering isolated bursts.

  • Ground black pepper

    Use 50% of the weight. Stir in near the end of cooking; significantly darkens light gravies and provides an immediate, sharp bite.

Vegetable oil
  • Peanut oil

    Use 1:1 by weight. Handles high-heat frying identically and introduces a very subtle, pleasant nuttiness.

  • Ghee

    Use 1:1 by weight. Yields a much richer, authentic aroma and a glossy, heavier mouthfeel.

  • Mustard oil

    Use 1:1 by weight. Heat until smoking, then cool slightly before cooking to temper its intensely pungent, sharp mustard kick.

Butter
  • Unsalted butter

    Use 100% of the weight. If the original recipe relies on salted table butter, add a pinch of salt to balance.

  • Ghee

    Use 80% to 85% of the weight. Ghee is pure butterfat with moisture removed; it yields a deeper, nuttier flavour and handles high heat better.

  • Vegetable oil

    Use 80% of the weight for frying or tempering. The dish loses sweet dairy richness but remains glossy and light.

Onion
  • Shallot

    Use equal weight, finely sliced. Shallots soften and brown faster, giving a slightly sweeter and more delicate base to curries.

  • Cabbage

    Use 80% of the weight, finely shredded and browned slowly with a pinch of asafoetida. Replicates the bulk and natural sweetness in gravies without allium.

Green bird's eye chilli
  • Bird's eye green chilli

    Use the same weight; heat and flavour are very close.

  • Green chilli

    Use 1.5 to 2 times the weight; deseed for less heat. Larger chillies are more watery.

  • Fresh green chilli

    Use 1.5 to 2 times the weight; chop finely and adjust heat by tasting.

Ground turmeric
  • Ground ginger

    Use 50% of the weight. Mimics turmeric's warm, earthy, rhizome background, but provides none of the golden-yellow colour.

  • Saffron

    Steep a tiny pinch (0.1 g per 2 g turmeric) in 2 tbsp warm water; use to match the rich golden hue. Contributes an aristocratic, honeyed floral flavour rather than earthy bitterness.

Tomato purée
  • Tomato

    Use 200% to 250% of the weight. Finely grate or blend fresh tomatoes, then cook them down until the moisture evaporates and the oil separates.

Greek yoghurt
Ground nutmeg
  • Nutmeg

    Grate whole nutmeg finely on a microplane; use 80% to 100% of the weight. Freshly grated nutmeg has significantly more aromatic oils and a more vibrant aroma.

  • Ground mace

    Use 100% to 120% of the weight. Mace is nutmeg's outer husk, providing almost identical warmth but with a lighter, slightly more delicate, floral edge.

  • Ground cinnamon (cassia)

    Use 75% of the weight. Adds comparable warmth and sweetness, though it lacks the musky, nutty undertone of nutmeg.

Rosewater
  • Screwpine water or rosewater

    If using kewra water, use 50% of the volume specified; it is intensely floral and pungent, so add drop by drop to avoid overpowering.

  • Ground green cardamom

    Use 0.5 g ground spice for every 5 ml rosewater. Adds warm, perfumed top notes, shifting the aroma from floral to sweet spice.

  • Dried rose petals

    Steep 1 g dried petals in 15 ml hot milk or water for 10 minutes, strain, and stir in for a subtle, natural floral note.

Coriander leaves
  • Coriander (cilantro) or basil

    Use the same weight, choosing the coriander element if available. If only basil is available, expect a sweeter, more aniseed flavour.

  • Basil leaves

    Use the same weight. Basil is sweeter and more aromatic in a different way; add near the end so it keeps its perfume.

  • Coriander paste

    Use 1.5 times the weight and reduce other liquid slightly; it is less fresh and more concentrated, so taste before adding more.

Lemon juice
  • Lime juice

    Use equal volume or weight; delivers almost identical sharp acidity with a faintly more aromatic, bitter-edged profile.

  • Dried mango powder

    Use 25% of the weight (about 1 g amchoor for 4 g juice); provides clean fruity tartness without thinning the sauce.

  • White vinegar

    Use 75% of the volume; gives direct sourness without any citrus floral fragrance.

Similar dishes

Bengali Kosha Mangsho
Marinated Lamb Curry with Mustard, Yoghurt and Spices
It tastes rich, tangy and warmly spiced like this dish, but mustard oil and potato make it sharper and starchier, with no rose-water floral note.
  • Same: Bengali Kosha Mangsho shares slow-cooked lamb in an onion, tomato and yoghurt gravy with garlic, ginger, cardamom, clove, cassia, kashmiri chilli, turmeric, coriander, tomato purée, lemon juice and coriander leaves.
  • Different: It uses leg of lamb and potato chunks, adds mustard oil, dried kashmiri chilli and cumin, and lacks butter, rose water, nutmeg, black peppercorn and green bird’s eye chilli.
Salli Kheema Pav
Minced Lamb with Chilli and Coconut
Salli Kheema Pav tastes savoury and tangy with gentle sweetness and a warm chilli aroma from coconut milk, vinegar and sugar. This dish tastes rich and tangy from yoghurt and lemon, with rose water and warm spices.
  • Same: Salli Kheema Pav shares lamb, garlic, ginger, onion, tomato, green bird’s eye chilli, Kashmiri chilli powder, turmeric, ground coriander, cassia, green cardamom, clove, black peppercorn, vegetable oil, lemon juice and salt with this dish.
  • Different: Salli Kheema Pav uses minced lamb instead of lamb shanks and adds coconut milk, malt vinegar, dark brown sugar, curry leaves, star anise and mace. It lacks yoghurt, butter, rose water and nutmeg, and it is topped with crisp potato straws and served with pav. It is a minced curry rather than a slow-cooked shank gravy.
Laal Maas (Indian Kitchen)
Rajasthani Lamb Curry
Laal Maas tastes much hotter and more chilli-forward than this dish, with lemon tang and yoghurt softening the heat, while this dish is gentler and rose-water aromatic.
  • Same: Laal Maas shares lamb, onion, garlic, Greek yoghurt, Kashmiri chilli, ground coriander, cardamom, clove, lemon and coriander leaves with this dish, and both are thick slow-cooked curries.
  • Different: Laal Maas uses bone-in lamb leg, dried Kashmiri chillies, bay leaf, cumin and water, and lacks this dish’s tomato purée, ginger, butter, rose water, nutmeg, cassia and peppercorns.
Chukhandar Ka Gosht
Beetroot and Lamb Curry
Chukhandar Ka Gosht tastes sweet and earthy from beetroot, gently spiced and lemon-brightened, while this dish is richer, tangier from tomato and yoghurt, and floral from rose water.
  • Same: Chukhandar Ka Gosht shares lamb, garlic, ginger, yoghurt, onion, kashmiri chilli, ground coriander, cardamom, cassia, clove, lemon and fresh herbs with this dish.
  • Different: It uses beetroot, bay leaf and garam masala, has no tomato purée, rose water, nutmeg, butter or bird’s eye chilli, and uses less lamb with vegetable oil only.