Laal Maas is a hot red lamb curry with a thick chilli gravy and tender bone-in lamb. It tastes fiery, tangy and aromatic, with yoghurt softening the heat.
Mix 45 g greek yoghurt with the marinade spices (2.5 g kashmiri chilli powder or mild paprika, 3.6 g ground coriander and 2.6 g ground cumin) in a bowl. Add 850 g lamb leg on the bone and turn until well coated. Leave for 2–3 hours, or overnight in the fridge.
Deseed 24 g dried kashmiri chilli and soak in 199 g warm water for 20 minutes. Blend half the soaked chillies with 24 g garlic and a little soaking liquid to a smooth paste; put in a bowl. Blend the other half with a little more soaking liquid to a coarse paste; keep separate. Reserve the remaining liquid.
Heat 40.5 g vegetable oil in a wide heavy pan over medium heat. Add the whole spices for the oil (1.4 g green cardamom pod, 1 g bay leaf and 0.4 g clove) and fry for 20 seconds until they sizzle. Add 150 g onion and cook for 8–10 minutes until softened and starting to colour. Stir in the smooth chilli-garlic paste and cook for 2 minutes.
Add the lamb with its marinade. Raise the heat slightly and fry for 7–8 minutes to seal the meat. Pour in the reserved soaking liquid and season with salt to taste. Stir, bring to a boil, then lower the heat, cover and simmer gently for 1 hour, until the lamb is tender and falling off the bone. Stir halfway through and add the coarse Kashmiri chilli paste. The gravy should reduce to a thick consistency.
Scatter over coriander leaves to taste and squeeze over 25 g lemon juice.
Use 1 g powder for every 1.5 g whole dried chilli; whisk with a spoonful of warm water and stir into the masala to provide identical ruby colour and mild heat.
Use 15% to 20% of the weight (about 1 g for every 5 to 6 g fresh cloves). Whisk into sauces; gives a savoury, toasted garlic flavour without raw pungency.
Use 1 g ground for 4 g whole (or 1 small pinch per 2 to 3 whole cloves). Add with spice powders; disperses intense warmth quickly, so use with restraint.
Allspice berries
Use 100% of the weight whole in tempering. Imparts a warm, clove-like aromatic profile combined with hints of nutmeg and cinnamon.
Use 80% of the weight, finely shredded and browned slowly with a pinch of asafoetida. Replicates the bulk and natural sweetness in gravies without allium.
Use 50% of the weight and stir in near the end of cooking. Adds warmth and depth since it contains ground coriander, but introduces stronger spices like clove and cinnamon.