A Goan white fish curry with a hot, sour and lightly sweet tomato-onion sauce, powered by a roasted Kashmiri chilli paste. Tamarind and vinegar supply the sour note, while sugar softens the heat.
Rub 650 g sea bream or haddock steaks with the fish marinade spices and 0.3 g salt. Set aside.
Dry-roast the chilli paste spices, using the 2.1 g cumin seed, 5.1 g coriander seeds and 15 g dried kashmiri chilli, in a frying pan over low heat for 6–8 minutes, stirring often, until fragrant and a shade darker. Turn off the heat and leave to cool. Grind with 0.3 g clove to a fine powder.
Blend 18 g garlic, 2 g ginger root, 30 g malt vinegar and 60 g of the 497 g water until smooth. Stir in the ground chilli paste spices to make the chilli paste; set aside.
Blend 100 g tomato and 31.2 g tomato purée to a smooth paste.
Heat 40.5 g vegetable oil in a heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. Add 120 g white onion and fry for 10–12 minutes, stirring, until it starts to colour.
Add the tomato paste and fry for 4 minutes. Stir in the prepared chilli paste and fry for 4–5 minutes, scraping the base so it does not stick.
Add the remaining 437 g water, 8.4 g granulated sugar and salt to taste. Lower the heat and simmer for 2–3 minutes.
Add the fish, cover and cook for 6–7 minutes. Swirl the pan gently so the fish stays whole.
Stir in 3 g tamarind paste and cook for 1 minute more.
Turn off the heat and scatter with chopped coriander to taste.
Steep a tiny pinch (0.1 g per 2 g turmeric) in 2 tbsp warm water; use to match the rich golden hue. Contributes an aristocratic, honeyed floral flavour rather than earthy bitterness.
Use 40% to 50% of the fresh tomato weight mixed with a splash of water. Imparts a deeper red colour, thicker sauce, and slightly sweeter cooked flavour.
Use 1 g powder for every 1.5 g whole dried chilli; whisk with a spoonful of warm water and stir into the masala to provide identical ruby colour and mild heat.
Use 1 g ground for 4 g whole (or 1 small pinch per 2 to 3 whole cloves). Add with spice powders; disperses intense warmth quickly, so use with restraint.
Allspice berries
Use 100% of the weight whole in tempering. Imparts a warm, clove-like aromatic profile combined with hints of nutmeg and cinnamon.
Use 15% to 20% of the weight (about 1 g for every 5 to 6 g fresh cloves). Whisk into sauces; gives a savoury, toasted garlic flavour without raw pungency.
Use 20% to 25% of the weight (1 g for every 4 to 5 g fresh). Stir into the gravy; adds peppery heat and warmth, though it misses the crisp, zesty kick of raw root.