Malyali Kozhi Biryani is a Southern Indian layered chicken and basmati rice dish, gently spiced and enriched with coconut milk. It tastes aromatic, savoury and mildly rich, with sweet fried onions, cashews and raisins on top.
Marinade pastes and turmeric
25 gHalf mixed into the chicken; remainder fried with onions (steps 1 and 4)
Mix 850 g chicken with half the 15.6 g ginger paste, half the 7.8 g garlic paste, half the 8 g green bird’s eye chilli paste and 1.5 g ground turmeric. Cover and marinate for at least a few hours, or overnight.
Heat 54 g vegetable oil in a heavy saucepan over medium heat. Add the spices for the hot oil and let them sizzle for a few seconds.
Add 300 g thinly sliced onion and a pinch of salt. Fry over medium heat for about 10 minutes, stirring often so the onion does not stick.
Stir in the remaining ginger, garlic and chilli pastes and fry for about 1 minute.
Add the marinated chicken, 2.5–3.8 g curry leaf and the ground spices for the chicken. Raise the heat slightly and fry for 5 minutes, turning the chicken to coat and seal it.
Pour in 100 ml water and bring to a boil. Season with salt, cover and simmer over low heat for 18 minutes, stirring once halfway.
Stir in 101 g coconut milk and simmer for 5–7 minutes more. Take off the heat and leave to rest.
Soak 500 g basmati rice in cold water for 15 minutes. Meanwhile heat 1.5 litres water in a large saucepan with the rice aromatics.
Drain the rice and add it to the pan. Cook over medium heat for 18–20 minutes, until tender but still slightly firm to the bite.
Heat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas 4.
Brush a lidded casserole dish with a little of the 28.2 g melted butter.
Spread a quarter of the rice in the dish. Add a spoonful of the 60 g coconut milk, a third of the chicken with some gravy, a pinch of the layering garam masala and some of the 4.5 g chopped coriander leaves.
Repeat these layers, finishing with rice. Pour over the rest of the melted butter and coconut milk.
Cover with greaseproof paper and a tight lid.
Bake for 18–20 minutes, until the rice has absorbed the flavours and the grains separate. Turn off the oven and leave the dish inside for 10 minutes.
For the garnish, heat 40.5 g vegetable oil in a frying pan over medium heat. Add 300 g thinly sliced red onion and 0.3 g granulated sugar. Fry for 10 minutes, until the onion begins to colour. Lift out and drain on kitchen paper.
Add 9 g roughly chopped cashew nut and 9 g raisin to the same pan. Fry until the cashews are light brown and the raisins puff. Drain.
Discard the whole spices from the dish. Top the biryani with the fried onion, cashews and raisins.
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Chicken
Turkey thigh
Use 100% of the weight, cut into equivalent bone-in or boneless pieces. Simmer for an extra 5 to 10 minutes; flavour and texture are very similar.
Steep a tiny pinch (0.1 g per 2 g turmeric) in 2 tbsp warm water; use to match the rich golden hue. Contributes an aristocratic, honeyed floral flavour rather than earthy bitterness.
Use 80% of the weight, finely shredded and browned slowly with a pinch of asafoetida. Replicates the bulk and natural sweetness in gravies without allium.
Use 50% of the weight and stir in near the end of cooking. Adds warmth and depth since it contains ground coriander, but introduces stronger spices like clove and cinnamon.
Use equal weight; simmer gently over low heat to prevent curdling. Imparts a comparable rich texture, though it adds dairy richness without any coconut fragrance.
Use about a third of the weight (0.5 g ground for a 2.5 cm piece), stirred in with the ground spices rather than fried whole, since the powder burns quickly.
Use 50% of the weight mixed with equal parts ground coriander and a pinch of ground cinnamon, ground cloves, and ground green cardamom. Sprinkle near the end for a warming finish.