Yakhni pulao is a lamb and basmati rice dish cooked in a spiced stock, with whole spices and a butter-oil base. It is aromatic, savoury and gently warming from the nutmeg, cinnamon and chilli.
Whole spices for the stock
7 gTied into muslin with the onion for the lamb stock (step 1)
Tie 150 g onion and the whole spices for the stock (1 g bay leaf, 0.9 g green cardamom pod, 4 g cassia bark, 0.3–0.4 g clove, 2 g fennel seed) into a square of muslin and secure it.
Put 600 g lamb shoulder in a stockpot, add about 1 litre water or enough to cover, and add the muslin bundle. Bring to the boil, then lower the heat and simmer for 1 hour 15 minutes.
Remove and discard the muslin bundle. Lift out the lamb and set it aside; reserve 600 ml of the stock.
Soak 350 g basmati rice for at least 30 minutes, then rinse it in a sieve until the water is no longer cloudy.
Put a heavy-based pan over medium heat and add 28.2 g melted butter and 27 g vegetable oil. When hot, add the whole spices for the oil (1 g bay leaf, 2 g cassia bark, 0.9 g green cardamom pod) and fry for 1 minute until fragrant.
Add 300 g thinly sliced onion and fry over medium heat for 7–8 minutes, until softened and pale gold.
Stir in the ginger–garlic paste (15.6 g ginger paste, 31.2 g garlic paste) and 4 g green bird’s eye chilli, slit lengthways, and cook for 2 minutes.
Add the ground spices for the pulao (2.2 g ground nutmeg, 2.6 g ground cinnamon) and stir for a few seconds.
Mix in the reserved lamb and the soaked rice, season with salt to taste, then pour in the 600 ml reserved stock and mix well.
Cover and cook over low heat for about 20 minutes, until the rice is fully cooked and no liquid remains.
Take off the heat and scatter over chopped coriander leaves to taste.
Use 80% of the weight, finely shredded and browned slowly with a pinch of asafoetida. Replicates the bulk and natural sweetness in gravies without allium.
Use about a third of the weight (0.5 g ground for a 2.5 cm piece), stirred in with the ground spices rather than fried whole, since the powder burns quickly.
Use 1 g ground for 4 g whole (or 1 small pinch per 2 to 3 whole cloves). Add with spice powders; disperses intense warmth quickly, so use with restraint.
Allspice berries
Use 100% of the weight whole in tempering. Imparts a warm, clove-like aromatic profile combined with hints of nutmeg and cinnamon.
Grate whole nutmeg finely on a microplane; use 80% to 100% of the weight. Freshly grated nutmeg has significantly more aromatic oils and a more vibrant aroma.
Use 100% to 120% of the weight. Mace is nutmeg's outer husk, providing almost identical warmth but with a lighter, slightly more delicate, floral edge.