A rich keema of minced kid goat, liver and kidney cooked with whole and ground spices, tomato and yoghurt, then finished with ginger, watercress and crisp potato salli. It is deeply savoury and warming, with a fresh green top note.
Heat 100 g ghee in a heavy saucepan over medium heat. Add the whole spices for the ghee (4.3 g black peppercorn, 3.2 g clove, 6.3 g cumin seed, 1.3 g cinnamon stick and 3.8 g black cardamom pod) and fry for 2–3 minutes, stirring, until aromatic and slightly coloured.
Add 300 g brown onion and 45 g ginger garlic paste. Cook for about 10 minutes, stirring often, until the onion softens and turns golden.
Raise the heat to high. Add 250 g kid goat, 80 g venison liver and 80 g kidney. Stir continuously for about 10 minutes, until the meat loses its raw colour and browns.
Stir in the ground spices for the meat (7.8 g kashmiri chilli powder, 7.8 g ground cumin, 9 g ground turmeric and 5.4 g ground coriander) and cook for 2 minutes.
Add 500 g plum tomato purée. Cover and simmer for a few minutes, then lower the heat to medium and cook for 30–40 minutes, stirring now and then, until the meat is tender and most of the tomato liquid has cooked away.
Meanwhile, prepare potato salli following the Guinea Fowl Mappas with Salli Potatoes recipe; set aside.
Take the pan off the heat. Stir in 200 g greek yoghurt, 80 g fresh ginger root, 6 g dried fenugreek leaf and 7.8 g garam masala. Add sea salt to taste.
Divide among 4 bowls. Scatter 100 g watercress and potato salli over the top.
Use 120% of the weight; melt gently over low heat to avoid burning the milk solids, which will yield a softer, creamier richness rather than a nutty aroma.
Use 1 g ground for 4 g whole (or 1 small pinch per 2 to 3 whole cloves). Add with spice powders; disperses intense warmth quickly, so use with restraint.
Allspice berries
Use 100% of the weight whole in tempering. Imparts a warm, clove-like aromatic profile combined with hints of nutmeg and cinnamon.
Use about a third of the weight (0.5 g ground for a 2.5 cm piece), stirred in with the ground spices rather than fried whole, since the powder burns quickly.
Use 80% of the weight, finely shredded and browned slowly with a pinch of asafoetida. Replicates the bulk and natural sweetness in gravies without allium.
Steep a tiny pinch (0.1 g per 2 g turmeric) in 2 tbsp warm water; use to match the rich golden hue. Contributes an aristocratic, honeyed floral flavour rather than earthy bitterness.
Use 50% of the weight and stir in near the end of cooking. Adds warmth and depth since it contains ground coriander, but introduces stronger spices like clove and cinnamon.
Use 20% to 25% of the weight (1 g for every 4 to 5 g fresh). Stir into the gravy; adds peppery heat and warmth, though it misses the crisp, zesty kick of raw root.
Use 50% of the weight mixed with equal parts ground coriander and a pinch of ground cinnamon, ground cloves, and ground green cardamom. Sprinkle near the end for a warming finish.
Use the same weight of raw potato, cut into fine matchsticks, soak in water, dry well and deep-fry until pale gold. It gives the same potato crunch but takes 10–15 minutes longer.