A Hyderabadi curry of slit green chillies in a thick peanut, sesame and coconut paste, soured with tamarind and lightly sweetened with jaggery. It tastes nutty, tangy and warmly spiced, with a whole-seed tempering and gentle chilli heat.
Salan paste whole spices
11 gDry-toasted at the start of the salan paste (step 1)
Put 5.1 g coriander seeds and 6.3 g cumin seed in a dry frying pan over medium heat and toast for 2 minutes, stirring.
Add 27 g sesame seed and toast for 1 minute, stirring.
Add 27 g peanut and 60 g coconut and dry-fry for 3 minutes, until the mixture begins to brown.
Tip the toasted mixture into a bowl and leave to cool.
Heat 13.2 g ghee in the same pan and fry 100 g onion, 20 g ginger and 15 g garlic for 5 minutes, stirring, until lightly browned.
Transfer the onion mixture to a bowl and leave to cool.
Fry 260 g padron pepper in the leftover ghee over medium heat for 3–4 minutes, until the skins are browned and blistered in places.
Drain the peppers on paper towels and reserve.
Blend the cooled toasted mixture, cooled onion mixture and 149 g water to a smooth, thick paste; reserve as the salan paste.
Heat 26.4 g ghee in a heavy non-stick saucepan over medium heat.
Add the tempering whole spices (3.5 g black mustard seed, 3 g nigella seeds, 0.9 g fenugreek seed); let the mustard and nigella pop for a few seconds, then stir the fenugreek for 2–3 seconds.
Add the salan paste and fry for 3–4 minutes, stirring.
Add the ground spices for the curry (3.9 g kashmiri chilli powder, 1.5 g ground turmeric) and fry for 2 minutes, until the fat separates at the pan edges.
Add the fried peppers and stir so the paste coats them and works into the cuts; season with salt to taste.
Add 298 g water, stir and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover and simmer for 5 minutes.
Stir in 36 g tamarind paste and 4.2 g jaggery, then finish with coriander to taste.
Use 120% of the weight; melt gently over low heat to avoid burning the milk solids, which will yield a softer, creamier richness rather than a nutty aroma.
Steep a tiny pinch (0.1 g per 2 g turmeric) in 2 tbsp warm water; use to match the rich golden hue. Contributes an aristocratic, honeyed floral flavour rather than earthy bitterness.
Use 80% of the weight, finely shredded and browned slowly with a pinch of asafoetida. Replicates the bulk and natural sweetness in gravies without allium.
Use 20% to 25% of the weight (1 g for every 4 to 5 g fresh). Stir into the gravy; adds peppery heat and warmth, though it misses the crisp, zesty kick of raw root.
Use 15% to 20% of the weight (about 1 g for every 5 to 6 g fresh cloves). Whisk into sauces; gives a savoury, toasted garlic flavour without raw pungency.