
East Indian Mutton Estup
A soupy, warming lamb curry with a thin, peppery, chilli-hot gravy and a tangy yoghurt-onion base. Cumin, coriander and whole spices give it a fragrant, savoury depth.
Whole spices for the ghee
6 gCooked in the ghee before the onions (step 3)Lamb spices
7 gAdded with the lamb (step 8)Dried chilli for the simmer
4.5 gAdded with the remaining water for the simmer (step 11)Everything else
Method
- Blend 12 g garlic, 20 g fresh ginger root and 4 g green bird's eye chilli with a splash of water to a smooth paste; set aside.
- Heat 39.6 g ghee in a large saucepan over medium heat.
- Add the whole spices for the ghee and cook for 1 minute, stirring, until fragrant.
- Add 180 g onion and fry for 15–17 minutes, stirring frequently, until deep golden.
- Lift out half the onions and put them in a bowl, leaving the whole spices in the pan.
- Stir 30 g greek yoghurt into the onions in the bowl; set aside.
- Add the garlic-ginger-chilli paste to the pan and fry for 2 minutes.
- Add 680 g bone-in lamb shoulder and the lamb spices; fry for 1 minute.
- Add 150 g of the 497 g water and salt to taste. Cover and cook over low heat for 50 minutes, stirring once halfway.
- Add the yoghurt-onion mixture and cook for 4–5 minutes, stirring continuously.
- Add the remaining 347 g water and the dried chilli for the simmer. Cover and simmer for 30 minutes, stirring once halfway.
- Check that the lamb is tender, then garnish with coriander leaf to taste.
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Garlic

Garlic pasteUse equal weight. Fry gently in oil or ghee with the ginger; incorporates smoothly into curries without visible minced bits.
Garlic powderUse 15% to 20% of the weight (about 1 g for every 5 to 6 g fresh cloves). Whisk into sauces; gives a savoury, toasted garlic flavour without raw pungency.
ShallotUse 1.5 times the weight, very finely minced. Sauté until golden; provides savoury allium sweetness, though it lacks garlic's pungent sulphur bite.

Fresh ginger

Ginger pasteUse equal weight. Sauté in hot fat until the raw allium smell disappears; slightly wetter, but provides identical warmth and pungency.
Ground gingerUse 20% to 25% of the weight (1 g for every 4 to 5 g fresh). Stir into the gravy; adds peppery heat and warmth, though it misses the crisp, zesty kick of raw root.

Green bird's eye chilli

Bird's eye green chilliUse the same weight; heat and flavour are very close.
Green chilliUse 1.5 to 2 times the weight; deseed for less heat. Larger chillies are more watery.
Fresh green chilliUse 1.5 to 2 times the weight; chop finely and adjust heat by tasting.

Ghee

Unsalted butterUse 120% of the weight; melt gently over low heat to avoid burning the milk solids, which will yield a softer, creamier richness rather than a nutty aroma.
Vegetable oilUse 85% of the weight; holds high cooking temperatures without smoking, but the final dish will lack traditional dairy depth.
Mustard oilUse equal weight; heat to smoking point and cool slightly before cooking, bearing in mind it introduces an assertive, pungent edge.

Cumin seed

Ground cuminUse 70% of the weight; add with ground spices or sauce bases rather than hot oil tempering, where it scorches quickly and turns bitter.
Black cumin seedsUse equal weight for oil tempering. Delivers an earthy profile with an additional musky, smoky, and slightly bitter edge.
Fennel seedUse 60% of the weight for tempering; offers comparable warm aroma, but leans sweet and liquorice-like rather than savoury and earthy.

Bay leaf

Cinnamon stickUse a 2 cm piece (about 1 g) for every 1 to 2 bay leaves. Fry in whole-spice temperings; provides the cassia-like warmth typical of Indian tejpatta.
Ground cinnamon (cassia)Use 0.5 g per leaf. Stir into the sauce during simmering; gives the same warm woodiness but darkens the colour slightly.

Black peppercorn

Coarsely ground black pepperUse 75% of the weight. Add midway through simmering; spreads heat evenly through the dish instead of delivering isolated bursts.
Ground black pepperUse 50% of the weight. Stir in near the end of cooking; significantly darkens light gravies and provides an immediate, sharp bite.

Clove

Ground clovesUse 1 g ground for 4 g whole (or 1 small pinch per 2 to 3 whole cloves). Add with spice powders; disperses intense warmth quickly, so use with restraint.
Allspice berriesUse 100% of the weight whole in tempering. Imparts a warm, clove-like aromatic profile combined with hints of nutmeg and cinnamon.
Black cardamom podUse 1 pod for 3 to 4 cloves in whole tempering. Shares a camphor-like warmth and medicinal depth, though it introduces a distinct smoky undertone.

Cassia bark

Ceylon cinnamonTrue cinnamon: thinner, papery quills, milder and sweeter. Use about 1.5 times the weight, and taste.
Ground cinnamon (cassia)Use about a third of the weight (0.5 g ground for a 2.5 cm piece), stirred in with the ground spices rather than fried whole, since the powder burns quickly.
Cassia budsUse 60-70% of the weight; stronger and more peppery, so taste before adding more.

Onion


Greek yoghurt

Hung natural yoghurtUse the same weight and whisk smooth; same thick consistency.
Full-fat natural yoghurtUse 1.25 times the weight and strain through muslin for 30 minutes; looser if not strained.
Hung yogurtUse the same weight; virtually identical.

Lamb shoulder


Coriander seeds

Ground corianderUse 75% of the weight; stir in along with wet masala or tomato purée rather than frying in hot oil, as the fine powder burns instantly.
Cumin seedUse 50% of the weight for tempering in hot oil. Lacks the floral, sweet citrus flavour of coriander, introducing warm, pungent earthiness instead.
Fennel seedUse 50% of the weight in tempering; provides pleasant aromatic sweetness, though noticeably aniseedy rather than citrusy.

Ground nutmeg

NutmegGrate whole nutmeg finely on a microplane; use 80% to 100% of the weight. Freshly grated nutmeg has significantly more aromatic oils and a more vibrant aroma.
Ground maceUse 100% to 120% of the weight. Mace is nutmeg's outer husk, providing almost identical warmth but with a lighter, slightly more delicate, floral edge.
Ground cinnamon (cassia)Use 75% of the weight. Adds comparable warmth and sweetness, though it lacks the musky, nutty undertone of nutmeg.

Water

StockUse the same weight in savoury dishes; it adds body, so adjust salt.
MilkUse the same weight only in doughs or creamy dishes; it makes the result richer.
Coconut waterUse the same weight in curries or rice; it adds sweetness and a faint coconut taste.

Dried kashmiri chilli

Kashmiri chilli powderUse 1 g powder for every 1.5 g whole dried chilli; whisk with a spoonful of warm water and stir into the masala to provide identical ruby colour and mild heat.
Dried red chilliUse 35% to 40% of the weight; discard seeds before tearing into oil to temper. Delivers a much fiercer heat, with significantly less red colouring.
Similar dishes

- Same: Lucknowi Lamb Nihari shares this dish’s ghee, bone-in lamb shoulder, onion, garlic, ginger, cumin seed, coriander seeds, black peppercorn, clove, cinnamon, green bird’s eye chilli, nutmeg and Kashmiri chilli.
- Different: It adds wholemeal flour, black and green cardamom, star anise, mace, fennel seed, dried rose petals, lime and more water, and lacks this dish’s yoghurt and bay leaf.

- Same: Kolhapuri Kaala Lamb Sukka shares bone-in lamb shoulder, yoghurt, onion, garlic, green bird’s eye chilli, cumin, coriander seeds, cinnamon, black peppercorn and clove with this dish.
- Different: Kolhapuri Kaala Lamb Sukka uses vegetable oil instead of ghee and adds coconut, lemon, curry leaf, star anise, Sichuan peppercorn and light brown sugar, while it lacks this dish’s ginger, bay leaf, nutmeg, Kashmiri chilli and coriander leaf and is cooked dry-style rather than thin and soupy.

- Same: Tamil Black Pepper Lamb Chops shares ghee, onion, garlic, ginger, green bird’s eye chilli, cinnamon, dried Kashmiri chilli, black peppercorn and salt with this dish.
- Different: It uses lamb chops plus turmeric, green cardamom and ground coriander, lacks this dish’s yoghurt, cumin seed, clove, nutmeg, bay leaf and coriander seeds, and cooks to a thick gravy rather than a thin soupy broth.

- Same: Khare Masale ka Gosht shares with this dish lamb, ghee, onion, ginger, garlic, yoghurt, bay leaf, black peppercorn, clove, cinnamon and coriander seeds.
- Different: Khare Masale ka Gosht adds tomato, black cardamom and green cardamom and uses much more ghee and yoghurt, while it lacks this dish’s cumin, nutmeg, green chilli, Kashmiri chilli and added water, so it is a thick braise rather than a thin soup.






































