A grilled wood pigeon breast dish with a clove-forward spice marinade, a rich onion-tomato and pea masala, and buttery chanterelles; the pumpkin chutney adds a tangy contrast.
Pigeon spice mix
18 gToasted and ground before going into the marinade (steps 4–5)
Remove the breasts from 1600 g wood pigeon and set them aside.
Roast the pigeon carcasses at 180°C (350°F/Gas 4) for about 40 minutes, until browned; set aside.
Toast 6.3 g cumin seed, 8.7 g black peppercorn and 3.2 g clove in a dry frying pan for a few minutes, shaking often, until aromatic.
Grind the toasted pigeon spice mix to a fine powder.
In a bowl, mix 27–40.5 g vegetable oil, 60 g ginger garlic paste, 7.8 g kashmiri chilli powder and 0.3 g sea salt with the pigeon spice mix. Coat the breasts in this marinade and set aside.
Heat 27 g vegetable oil in a heavy saucepan. Add 1.1 g clove, 2.9 g black peppercorn and 0.6 g indian bay leaf; fry for 30 seconds.
Add 60 g carrot, 300 g onion, celery to taste and 3 g garlic; cook over medium-high heat for 10 minutes, stirring, until caramelised.
Pour in 99.4 g white wine and stir; add the reserved carcasses. Add water to cover, bring to the boil, then cover and simmer for at least 2 hours.
Strain the stock through a fine sieve; boil the liquid until reduced by half.
Heat 54 g vegetable oil in a small pan; add 2.1 g cumin seed and cook for 1 minute.
Add 300 g brown onion; fry for 15–20 minutes until caramelised.
Stir in 30 g ginger garlic paste for a few seconds; add 400 g tomato purée and cook for 10–15 minutes until thick.
Add 150 g pea, stir, and take off the heat.
Melt 75 g butter with an equal amount of water in a frying pan; add 250 g chanterelle mushroom and cook for 3–4 minutes.
Add the mushrooms to the onion and tomato masala with a little stock; season with salt.
Grill the marinated breasts under a hot grill for 2 minutes each side; rest for 4 minutes. They should be rare to medium-rare.
Reheat the masala; spoon onto plates. Top with the breasts; serve with 150 g pumpkin chutney and 30 g coriander.
Use the same weight of boneless or bone-in chicken. It is much less gamey, so add a little extra garam masala or black pepper; cook 10–15 minutes less than pigeon.
Use the same weight and cook it down with sugar, vinegar and the same spices to make the chutney. It takes 20–30 minutes and gives the closest flavour.
Use 1 g ground for 4 g whole (or 1 small pinch per 2 to 3 whole cloves). Add with spice powders; disperses intense warmth quickly, so use with restraint.
Allspice berries
Use 100% of the weight whole in tempering. Imparts a warm, clove-like aromatic profile combined with hints of nutmeg and cinnamon.
Use the same weight; peel and cut as for carrot. It is less sweet and slightly peppery, so add a pinch of sugar and expect a softer, more earthy result.
Use 80% of the weight, finely shredded and browned slowly with a pinch of asafoetida. Replicates the bulk and natural sweetness in gravies without allium.
Use 15% to 20% of the weight (about 1 g for every 5 to 6 g fresh cloves). Whisk into sauces; gives a savoury, toasted garlic flavour without raw pungency.
Use 40% to 50% of the fresh tomato weight mixed with a splash of water. Imparts a deeper red colour, thicker sauce, and slightly sweeter cooked flavour.