Non-vegetarianOrigin HyderabadPrep 1 hour 20 minutes, plus marinating and soaking timeCook 50 minutes
A classic layered biryani where raw, tenderised lamb is slow-cooked under a blanket of parboiled rice, infused with saffron, ghee, and warming whole spices.
Heat 100 g ghee in a heavy-based pan over medium heat. Fry 450 g onion for 5–7 minutes until deep golden brown. Lift out the onions, crush half of them to a paste, and reserve the remainder along with the ghee in the pan.
Place 1000 g lamb into a wide bowl and rub all over with 1 tablespoon ground unripe papaya. Add 129 g yogurt, the marinade spices, 1 teaspoon ground caraway seeds, the crushed onions, and salt to taste. Mix thoroughly, then cover and chill in the refrigerator for 1 hour, turning the meat once after 25 minutes.
If baking, preheat the oven to 150°C (300°F). Soak 1000 g basmati rice in salted water for 20 minutes, then drain. Bring a large pot of salted water to the boil, add the rice, and cook for 12–15 minutes until parboiled. Drain thoroughly, reserving 375 ml of the cooking water.
Lightly crush 1 teaspoon saffron in a small cup and stir in a splash of milk.
Arrange the marinated lamb across the base of a large heavy casserole or ovenproof pot. Pour over half of the 259 g milk, the reserved 375 ml cooking water, and the saffron milk. Scatter over the reserved fried onions with their ghee, 100 g coriander leaf, 1 g mint, 36 g green chilli, half of the layering spice, and the juice from 4 limes. Spread the parboiled rice over the top, then finish with the remaining layering spice and a pinch of salt.
Fit the lid tightly and lute the edges with 150 g dough to trap the steam. Cook over medium heat for about 10 minutes until sizzling sounds are heard inside. Lower the flame, place a heavy griddle under the pot, and cook gently for 35–40 minutes (or bake in the oven at 150°C / 300°F). Check doneness by opening the seal and probing the base with a spoon; if any liquid remains at the bottom, continue cooking until fully absorbed. Keep covered until ready to serve.
Use 120% of the weight; melt gently over low heat to avoid burning the milk solids, which will yield a softer, creamier richness rather than a nutty aroma.
Use 80% of the weight, finely shredded and browned slowly with a pinch of asafoetida. Replicates the bulk and natural sweetness in gravies without allium.
Use equal weight when needed as a meat tenderiser in marinades; softens meat effectively via lactic acid, though it lacks the enzyme strength of papain.
Use 1 g ground for 4 g whole (or 1 small pinch per 2 to 3 whole cloves). Add with spice powders; disperses intense warmth quickly, so use with restraint.
Allspice berries
Use 100% of the weight whole in tempering. Imparts a warm, clove-like aromatic profile combined with hints of nutmeg and cinnamon.
Use about a third of the weight (0.5 g ground for a 2.5 cm piece), stirred in with the ground spices rather than fried whole, since the powder burns quickly.
Use about 30% of the weight of fresh mint. Rub between your palms to crush before stirring in; the flavour will be more intensely herbal and less bright.