Trim the 12 chops by excising the two flanking rib bones and scraping the lower section of each bone clean. Place them in a wide, shallow dish.
Whisk together 60 g white malt vinegar, 127 g plain yogurt, 1 tablespoon fried onion paste, 2 teaspoon papaya paste, salt to taste, and the marinade spices in a large bowl. Rub this mixture over the chops until well coated, cover, and refrigerate for at least 3 hours.
Pour frying oil or ghee into a deep, heavy saucepan and heat to 180°C (350°F). Fry 50 g almonds for 1 to 2 minutes until lightly golden, then transfer with a slotted spoon onto paper towels to cool. Once cold, tip the almonds into a blender with 250 ml water and process to a smooth puree.
Preheat the oven to 140°C (275°F). Arrange the chops in a greased roasting tin, pour the remaining marinade over them, dot with 5 tablespoon unsalted butter, and brush with 2 beaten eggs. Roast for roughly 25 minutes until cooked through, basting regularly with the pan juices. Transfer the meat to a plate and retain all cooking liquor.
Warm 6 tablespoon ghee in a wide saucepan over medium heat. Add the whole spices for the sauce and cook for roughly 30 seconds until the cardamoms puff and take on colour. Stir in the ginger and garlic pastes for the sauce, frying for 1 to 2 minutes until the moisture evaporates. Lower the flame, add the pureed almond paste, and fry for 1 to 2 minutes until browned, stirring in small splashes of water as needed to prevent sticking.
Raise the heat back to medium. Mix in 3 tablespoon fried onion paste and 1 tablespoon garlic paste, cooking for 1 to 2 minutes until fat begins to release. Stir in the chilli powder for the sauce for 30 seconds, then pour in the reserved roasting liquor and cook for another 2 minutes until oil beads on the surface.
Pour in 500 ml water, bring to a rolling boil, then drop the heat to low and simmer gently for 4 to 5 minutes. Strain the sauce through a fine-mesh sieve into a clean pan, pressing out all liquid, and place it back over the heat. Season with salt, whisk in the ground spices for the sauce, and bring to a simmer.
Submerge the chops in the simmering sauce, turn the heat to low, and cook gently for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the meat is completely tender. Stir in 0.1 g ittar, check the seasoning, and serve.
For binding, use about 10 g chickpea flour mixed with 20 ml water per egg and rest for 10 minutes. Denser and nuttier; not suitable for baking or coating in the same way.
Grate whole nutmeg finely on a microplane; use 80% to 100% of the weight. Freshly grated nutmeg has significantly more aromatic oils and a more vibrant aroma.
Use 100% to 120% of the weight. Mace is nutmeg's outer husk, providing almost identical warmth but with a lighter, slightly more delicate, floral edge.
Use 1 g ground for 4 g whole (or 1 small pinch per 2 to 3 whole cloves). Add with spice powders; disperses intense warmth quickly, so use with restraint.
Allspice berries
Use 100% of the weight whole in tempering. Imparts a warm, clove-like aromatic profile combined with hints of nutmeg and cinnamon.
Use about a third of the weight (0.5 g ground for a 2.5 cm piece), stirred in with the ground spices rather than fried whole, since the powder burns quickly.