Non-vegetarianOrigin AwadhPrep 1½ hours, plus marinating timeCook 2 hours
A magnificent layered lamb biryani tenderised with green papaya and slow-steamed under a sealed lid. It features intensely fragrant, parboiled basmati rice layered over spiced meat, fried potatoes, and sweet dried plums infused with saffron and rosewater.
Marinade paste spices
4.8 gBlended with the papaya and aromatics (step 1)
Steep the saffron (0.7 g saffron) in 2 tablespoons of hot water. In a food processor, blend 45 g garlic, 38.4 g ginger, 30 g green chilli, 50 g coriander leaf, and 500 g unripe papaya together with the marinade paste spices until completely smooth.
Toss 1000 g lamb with salt to taste and leave to sit for 15 to 30 minutes. Thoroughly dry the meat using a clean cloth, then dust it with a pinch from the turmeric (1.5 g ground turmeric). Stir 507 g plain yogurt into the papaya paste and massage it all over the lamb. Cut a slit through the middle of each of the 750 g potato and season them with the remaining turmeric.
Grind the biryani spice blend until powdery and set aside.
Bring a large pot three-quarters full of water to a rolling boil. Stir in 1000 g basmati rice and the whole rice spices. Cook for approximately 5 minutes until parboiled to roughly one-quarter done, then drain, making sure to collect and save the cooking liquid.
In a wide, heavy pan, warm 500 g ghee over medium heat and sauté 750 g onion for about 5 minutes until rich golden-brown. Transfer the fried onions to a plate with a slotted spoon. Pour out half of the ghee to reserve for layering. Return the pan to the heat, add 2 teaspoons of crushed fried onions alongside 1 teaspoon of the chilli powder (5.2 g chilli powder), and sizzle for 1 minute. Add the potatoes, fry gently for 5 to 10 minutes until lightly browned, then lift out with a slotted spoon.
Arrange the marinated lamb pieces tightly across the base of a wide, heavy-bottomed pot in a single snug layer with no gaps. Drizzle 125 ml of the saved frying ghee over the meat, then dust evenly with the ground biryani spice blend and the rest of the chilli powder. Layer the fried potatoes over the meat, tucking 57 g dried plum into the gaps between them.
Preheat the oven to 230°C (450°F). Sprinkle 14.7 g rosewater and 1 teaspoon of the saffron liquid over the potato layer, then scatter over the rest of the fried onions. Spread the parboiled rice evenly on top. Pour over 125 g ghee, 186 g milk, and 300 ml of the reserved hot rice cooking water, finishing with the remaining saffron liquid poured right into the centre.
Fit a tight lid onto the pot and seal the rim completely with 150 g dough. Set the pot over high heat on the stovetop for 15 to 20 minutes, then shift it into the oven for 20 minutes. Drop the heat to 180°C (350°F) and continue baking for 1½ hours. Finally, rest the pot over medium stovetop heat for 10 to 15 minutes before breaking the seal to serve.
Use 15% to 20% of the weight (about 1 g for every 5 to 6 g fresh cloves). Whisk into sauces; gives a savoury, toasted garlic flavour without raw pungency.
Use equal weight when needed as a meat tenderiser in marinades; softens meat effectively via lactic acid, though it lacks the enzyme strength of papain.
Use 1 g ground for 4 g whole (or 1 small pinch per 2 to 3 whole cloves). Add with spice powders; disperses intense warmth quickly, so use with restraint.
Allspice berries
Use 100% of the weight whole in tempering. Imparts a warm, clove-like aromatic profile combined with hints of nutmeg and cinnamon.
Steep a tiny pinch (0.1 g per 2 g turmeric) in 2 tbsp warm water; use to match the rich golden hue. Contributes an aristocratic, honeyed floral flavour rather than earthy bitterness.
Use about a third of the weight (0.5 g ground for a 2.5 cm piece), stirred in with the ground spices rather than fried whole, since the powder burns quickly.
Use 120% of the weight; melt gently over low heat to avoid burning the milk solids, which will yield a softer, creamier richness rather than a nutty aroma.
Use 80% of the weight, finely shredded and browned slowly with a pinch of asafoetida. Replicates the bulk and natural sweetness in gravies without allium.
Use equal weight. Soak in warm water for 10 minutes before adding to mimic the chewy texture and sweetness, though you may need a squeeze of lemon juice to replace the tartness.
Use 50% of the weight mixed with an equal amount of jaggery or granulated sugar. Simmer directly into the gravy to replicate the sweet-sour fruit profile without whole fruit pieces.