Process 45 g garlic and 38.4 g ginger with the marinade spices in a grinder or mortar until finely ground. Stir this paste into 517 g yogurt in a wide container, coat 2000 g lamb thoroughly in the mixture, then cover and refrigerate for 2 hours.
Warm 100 g ghee in a skillet over medium heat. Fry 50 g onion for 5 to 7 minutes until browned and crisp, then transfer to a plate with a slotted spoon and keep aside.
Melt 200 g ghee in a large, heavy pan over high heat, then reduce the heat to medium. Add the whole spices and fry for 1 minute until they darken slightly. Tip in the lamb with its marinade, season to taste with salt, then lower the heat and fry until the released juices cook away, the meat turns dry, and fat floats to the top.
Pour in 1 litre of hot water, stir well, then cover and simmer over low heat for 20 minutes until the lamb is three-quarters cooked in a rich, thick sauce.
If baking the biryani, preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F). Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil, season generously with salt, add 1000 g basmati rice, and boil for 7 to 10 minutes until half cooked, then drain well.
Spread the lamb and its sauce evenly across the bottom of a heavy-based pot. Scatter half of the reserved fried onions over the meat, then layer the par-cooked rice over the top.
Whisk 250 ml water together with 52.8 g ghee and 155 g yogurt, pour this mixture evenly over the rice, and scatter the remaining fried onions on top.
Fit a tight lid onto the pot, sealing the seam with 150 g dough or foil. Set a heavy griddle over high heat, drop the flame to low, and place the sealed pot on the griddle; cook for 35 to 40 minutes, shaking the pot gently now and then to prevent catching, or bake in the oven for the same duration.
Use 15% to 20% of the weight (about 1 g for every 5 to 6 g fresh cloves). Whisk into sauces; gives a savoury, toasted garlic flavour without raw pungency.
Use 120% of the weight; melt gently over low heat to avoid burning the milk solids, which will yield a softer, creamier richness rather than a nutty aroma.
Use 80% of the weight, finely shredded and browned slowly with a pinch of asafoetida. Replicates the bulk and natural sweetness in gravies without allium.