Slit 16 wax gourds lengthways along one side and scrape out the seeds.
Heat 27 g vegetable oil or ghee in a heavy pan over medium heat. Fry 150 g chopped onion for 5 to 7 minutes until golden brown. Stir in the turmeric for the filling and 100 g rinsed, drained chana dal, then turn the heat down and cook for about 30 minutes, adding a splash of water if needed, until the dal turns tender.
Transfer the cooked dal to a food processor and blend until ground. Tip into a bowl and mix in the filling spices, 24 g chopped green chilli, and 0.3 g chopped coriander leaf. Divide the stuffing into 16 equal portions, pack into the hollowed gourds, and set aside.
In a small bowl, thoroughly stir together 259 g whisked yogurt and the yogurt spices.
Melt 26.4 g ghee in a large, heavy pan over medium heat. Add 2 tablespoon boiled onion paste and sauté for 2 to 3 minutes until golden brown. Add the ginger and garlic pastes and cook for 1 minute. Drop the heat to low, pour in the spiced yogurt, and stir continuously for 2 to 3 minutes until the ghee separates and rises to the surface. Stir in 600 g puréed tomato and salt to taste, increase the heat back to medium, and cook until reduced to a thick paste. Pour in 500 ml water and bring the gravy to a boil.
Gently place the stuffed wax gourds into the boiling sauce, lower the heat, and simmer for 5 minutes. Stir in the finishing spice carefully, cook until the sauce turns thick, then take the pan off the heat.
Use 80% of the weight, finely shredded and browned slowly with a pinch of asafoetida. Replicates the bulk and natural sweetness in gravies without allium.
Steep a tiny pinch (0.1 g per 2 g turmeric) in 2 tbsp warm water; use to match the rich golden hue. Contributes an aristocratic, honeyed floral flavour rather than earthy bitterness.
Chana dal
Yellow split peas
Use 100% of the weight. Soak for at least 1 hour; takes about 10 minutes longer to cook through and has a marginally earthier flavour.
Use 50% of the weight and stir in near the end of cooking. Adds warmth and depth since it contains ground coriander, but introduces stronger spices like clove and cinnamon.
Use 120% of the weight; melt gently over low heat to avoid burning the milk solids, which will yield a softer, creamier richness rather than a nutty aroma.
Use 40% to 50% of the fresh tomato weight mixed with a splash of water. Imparts a deeper red colour, thicker sauce, and slightly sweeter cooked flavour.
Use 50% of the weight mixed with equal parts ground coriander and a pinch of ground cinnamon, ground cloves, and ground green cardamom. Sprinkle near the end for a warming finish.