A Keralan chicken curry with a yoghurt marinade, a fried spice paste, tomatoes and thick coconut milk. It is rich and gently hot from bird’s eye and Kashmiri chillies, with aromatic fennel, cassia and cardamom.
Mix 1.5 g ground turmeric, 15 g greek yoghurt and a pinch of salt in a bowl. Add 800 g chicken, skinned and jointed, and turn to coat. Marinate for about 1 hour.
Heat 13.5 g vegetable oil in a frying pan over low heat. Add 10 g fresh ginger and 24 g garlic and fry for about 1 minute. Add the paste spices and fry for 5–6 minutes until lightly coloured. Cool, then transfer to a blender with 50–70 ml water and blend to a fine paste. Set aside.
Heat 40.5 g vegetable oil in a heavy non-stick pan over medium heat. Add 4 g green bird’s eye chilli and let them sizzle for about 10 seconds. Add 150 g onion and a pinch of salt; fry for 10–12 minutes until browned. Stir in 240 g tomato purée and cook for 3 minutes. Add the paste and fry for 4–5 minutes, stirring, until the sauce thickens a little and oil comes away at the pan edges.
Raise the heat slightly. Add the marinated chicken and stir to coat in the paste. Fry for 4 minutes until lightly coloured. Add 100 ml water and salt to taste. Cover and simmer for 25 minutes until the chicken is cooked through.
Stir in 101 g thick coconut milk and simmer for 5–7 minutes until the sauce thickens slightly. Scatter over 0.3 g red chilli flakes or fresh coriander.
Steep a tiny pinch (0.1 g per 2 g turmeric) in 2 tbsp warm water; use to match the rich golden hue. Contributes an aristocratic, honeyed floral flavour rather than earthy bitterness.
Use 80% of the weight, finely shredded and browned slowly with a pinch of asafoetida. Replicates the bulk and natural sweetness in gravies without allium.
Use 40% to 50% of the fresh tomato weight mixed with a splash of water. Imparts a deeper red colour, thicker sauce, and slightly sweeter cooked flavour.
Use equal weight; simmer gently over low heat to prevent curdling. Imparts a comparable rich texture, though it adds dairy richness without any coconut fragrance.
Use 20% to 25% of the weight (1 g for every 4 to 5 g fresh). Stir into the gravy; adds peppery heat and warmth, though it misses the crisp, zesty kick of raw root.
Use 15% to 20% of the weight (about 1 g for every 5 to 6 g fresh cloves). Whisk into sauces; gives a savoury, toasted garlic flavour without raw pungency.
Use 1 g powder for every 1.5 g whole dried chilli; whisk with a spoonful of warm water and stir into the masala to provide identical ruby colour and mild heat.
Use about a third of the weight (0.5 g ground for a 2.5 cm piece), stirred in with the ground spices rather than fried whole, since the powder burns quickly.