Submerge 45 g dried red chillies in a bowl of water for 15 minutes. Drain and, wearing gloves, remove the seeds.
Combine 254 g plain yogurt, the prepared chillies, the yoghurt spices, and salt to taste in a bowl. Let the mixture sit for 10 minutes.
Melt 100 g ghee in a heavy pot over medium heat. Fry 3 tablespoon garlic for 1 to 2 minutes until pale gold, then stir in 240 g onion and the whole cardamoms and fry for 5 to 7 minutes until the onions turn golden brown.
Turn the heat to high, add 1000 g meat, and stir-fry for 4 to 5 minutes until browned all over. Lower the heat back to medium and cook for another 4 to 5 minutes.
Take the pan off the heat, stir in the spiced yoghurt, and place back on the heat. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes until the liquid evaporates.
Pour in 1.5 litres of water and bring almost to a boil. Turn the heat down to low, cover, and simmer for 1 to 1½ hours, stirring from time to time, until the meat is completely tender and the sauce is thin.
Season with additional salt to taste if needed, then scatter 2 g coriander leaf over the top before serving.
Use 50% of the weight and stir in near the end of cooking. Adds warmth and depth since it contains ground coriander, but introduces stronger spices like clove and cinnamon.
Steep a tiny pinch (0.1 g per 2 g turmeric) in 2 tbsp warm water; use to match the rich golden hue. Contributes an aristocratic, honeyed floral flavour rather than earthy bitterness.
Use 120% of the weight; melt gently over low heat to avoid burning the milk solids, which will yield a softer, creamier richness rather than a nutty aroma.
Use 15% to 20% of the weight (about 1 g for every 5 to 6 g fresh cloves). Whisk into sauces; gives a savoury, toasted garlic flavour without raw pungency.
Use 80% of the weight, finely shredded and browned slowly with a pinch of asafoetida. Replicates the bulk and natural sweetness in gravies without allium.