Safed maas is a pale, creamy lamb curry with whole warm spices, yoghurt and a cashew-thickened gravy. It tastes rich and aromatic, with a gentle sweetness from rose water.
Put 80 g cashew nut in a bowl, cover with warm water and leave for 15 minutes. Drain, keeping 2 tbsp of the water, then blend the nuts with that water until smooth. Set the purée aside.
Warm 40.5 g vegetable oil in a deep pan over medium heat. Add the whole spices for the oil — the masala — and fry for 20 seconds. Add 300 g onion and cook for 9–10 minutes, stirring often, until softened and beginning to brown. Add 20 g fresh ginger and fry for 30 seconds. Add 800 g lamb leg on the bone, raise the heat a little, and fry for 4–5 minutes to colour the outside.
Turn the heat down. Stir in 180 g greek yoghurt a spoon at a time so it does not split. Pour in 350 ml water, bring to a boil and add salt to taste. Cover and simmer for 45 minutes, stirring several times.
Stir in the cashew purée and simmer for 15 minutes. Stir now and then as the gravy thickens so it does not catch on the base.
Take the pan off the heat. Stir in the finishing ground spice and 4.9 g rose water. Scatter over 1.5 g coriander leaves.
Use 1 g powder for every 1.5 g whole dried chilli; whisk with a spoonful of warm water and stir into the masala to provide identical ruby colour and mild heat.
Use about a third of the weight (0.5 g ground for a 2.5 cm piece), stirred in with the ground spices rather than fried whole, since the powder burns quickly.
Use 80% of the weight, finely shredded and browned slowly with a pinch of asafoetida. Replicates the bulk and natural sweetness in gravies without allium.
Use 20% to 25% of the weight (1 g for every 4 to 5 g fresh). Stir into the gravy; adds peppery heat and warmth, though it misses the crisp, zesty kick of raw root.