A Goan chicken curry built on a thick toasted coconut and whole-spice paste. It tastes rich, nutty and warm, with tamarind adding a clear sour edge and mild chilli heat in the background.
Serves4(the book: 4)
Marinade spices
3 gRubbed into the chicken before cooking (step 1)
Rub 0.3 g salt and 3 g ground turmeric (the marinade spices) into 900 g chicken leg and thigh pieces and leave them in the bowl.
Put a dry frying pan over low heat. Add 120 g grated fresh coconut and toast for 12–14 minutes until it starts to colour, then move it to a plate.
Add the xacuti paste spices except the 8.4 g white poppy seeds to the pan: 9–12 g broken dried Kashmiri chillies, 10.2 g coriander seeds, 2.6 g cinnamon stick, 2.9 g black peppercorns, 2.1 g cumin seed, 2 g fennel seed, 0.3 g clove and 2.4 g star anise. Toast over low heat for 5 minutes, stirring.
Add 8.4 g white poppy seeds and toast for 3 minutes more.
Take the pan off the heat and let the spice mixture cool.
Blend the cooled spices and toasted coconut with 18 g roughly chopped garlic and half of the 119 g water. Add the rest of the 119 g water a little at a time until the paste is thick and finely ground.
Heat 40.5 g vegetable oil in a heavy-based saucepan. Add 230 g thinly sliced onion and fry over medium heat for 14–15 minutes until soft and starting to brown.
Add the xacuti paste and cook for 5 minutes, stirring and scraping the bottom of the pan.
Add the curry chilli powder (2.6 g Kashmiri chilli powder) and a splash of the 298 g water, scraping the base of the pan.
Add the 900 g chicken and turn it to coat in the paste. Fry for 5 minutes, turning the pieces.
Pour in the rest of the 298 g water and bring to a boil.
Lower the heat, cover and simmer for 20 minutes, stirring once halfway, until the chicken is tender.
Add the finishing spice (1.1 g ground nutmeg) and 27 g tamarind paste. Cook uncovered for 7–8 minutes.
Steep a tiny pinch (0.1 g per 2 g turmeric) in 2 tbsp warm water; use to match the rich golden hue. Contributes an aristocratic, honeyed floral flavour rather than earthy bitterness.
Use 80% of the weight, finely shredded and browned slowly with a pinch of asafoetida. Replicates the bulk and natural sweetness in gravies without allium.
Grate whole nutmeg finely on a microplane; use 80% to 100% of the weight. Freshly grated nutmeg has significantly more aromatic oils and a more vibrant aroma.
Use 100% to 120% of the weight. Mace is nutmeg's outer husk, providing almost identical warmth but with a lighter, slightly more delicate, floral edge.
Use 1 g powder for every 1.5 g whole dried chilli; whisk with a spoonful of warm water and stir into the masala to provide identical ruby colour and mild heat.
Use about a third of the weight (0.5 g ground for a 2.5 cm piece), stirred in with the ground spices rather than fried whole, since the powder burns quickly.
Use 1 g ground for 4 g whole (or 1 small pinch per 2 to 3 whole cloves). Add with spice powders; disperses intense warmth quickly, so use with restraint.
Allspice berries
Use 100% of the weight whole in tempering. Imparts a warm, clove-like aromatic profile combined with hints of nutmeg and cinnamon.
Use 15% to 20% of the weight (about 1 g for every 5 to 6 g fresh cloves). Whisk into sauces; gives a savoury, toasted garlic flavour without raw pungency.