Vegetarian●●●Origin Tamil NaduPrep 20–25 minutesCook 45–55 minutes
These savoury South Indian griddle cakes are made from semolina and chickpea flour studded with fresh coconut, herbs, and aromatics. They cook quickly into hearty pancakes with crisp edges and a spiced, tender crumb.
Dry-roast 400 g semolina in a skillet over low heat for 4 minutes, then transfer to a large mixing bowl. Add 150 g chickpea flour, 36–48 g fresh coconut, 150 g onion, 12–18 g green chilli, 4.8 g ginger, 1–2 g coriander leaf, and salt to taste, stirring to combine.
Heat 9 g vegetable oil in a small heavy pan over medium heat. Add the tempering spices and 1 g curry leaf, then fry for 1 minute until the mustard seeds crackle.
Tip the contents of the tempering pan into the dry ingredients. Gradually stir in approximately 250 ml water until you have a thick, pourable batter.
Set a flat griddle or tawa over high heat until drops of water flicked onto it sizzle instantly. Turn the heat down slightly and brush the surface with a thin coat of vegetable oil.
Ladle batter into the centre of the hot pan and spiral outward using the back of the ladle to form a 15 cm disc. Make a small vent in the centre, then trickle a little vegetable oil into the hole and around the edges.
Cook for 2 minutes until the underside turns golden brown. Carefully flip and fry the other side for another 2 minutes until crisp and golden, then repeat the process with the remaining batter.
For crisping batters or binding cutlets: use 50% to 60% of the weight. Produces a very crisp shell but lacks the earthy, roasted nutty flavour of besan.
Use 50% to 60% of the weight, soaked in equal parts warm water for 15 minutes before grinding. Works well for chutneys, though texture is slightly finer and sweeter.
Use 1.2 times the weight in curries. Adds creamy richness and authentic flavour, but makes gravies smoother and eliminates the grated, chewy mouthfeel.
Use 80% of the weight, finely shredded and browned slowly with a pinch of asafoetida. Replicates the bulk and natural sweetness in gravies without allium.
Use the same weight. The seeds are smaller and hotter; fry in hot oil until they pop, about 20–30 seconds, and reduce the heat if they darken too fast. The dish will be a little sharper.
Use 70% of the weight of whole seed, added with the other ground spices rather than fried whole. You lose the popping texture and the heat comes through more evenly.