A Rajasthani curry of boiled and fried chickpea-flour dumplings simmered in a spiced yoghurt gravy. It tastes tangy, gently hot and savoury, with tender dumplings in a light gravy.
Mix 150 g chickpea flour, 22.5 g greek yoghurt, 0.3 g baking powder, salt to taste, 2 g grated ginger root, 40.5 g vegetable oil and the gatte masala (0.3 g ground turmeric, 1.2 g kashmiri chilli powder or mild paprika, 9 g dried fenugreek leaf) into a sticky dough.
Divide the dough into 5 thin cylinders no wider than a finger and rest for 15 minutes.
Bring 1.5 litres water to a boil in a wide pan over high heat.
Add the gatte a few at a time and cook for 10 minutes, until they float; lift them out and reserve 650 ml of the cooking water.
Cool the gatte for 10 minutes, then cut into bite-sized pieces.
Heat vegetable oil for frying in a kadhai to about one-third depth over medium-high heat; test with a piece of bread — it should sizzle and brown in 30 seconds — then fry the gatte in batches for 3–4 minutes until golden and drain on paper towels.
Whisk 45 g greek yoghurt with the curry yoghurt masala (1.8 g ground coriander, 1.3 g kashmiri chilli powder, 3 g ground turmeric) until combined and set aside.
Heat 40.5 g vegetable oil in a heavy saucepan over medium heat.
Add the whole spices for the oil (1.4 g asafoetida, 2.1 g cumin seed) and let them sizzle for a few seconds.
Add 120 g onion paste and fry for 2 minutes.
Take the pan off the heat, stir in the whisked yoghurt, then return it to low heat and cook for 2–3 minutes, stirring continuously.
Add the reserved 650 ml water and simmer for 5 minutes; if the gravy is thick, stir in a little extra water.
Add the gatte and cook uncovered over low heat for 5 minutes.
Turn off the heat, stir in the finishing masala (1.4 g mango powder), season with salt and garnish with coriander, roughly chopped.
For crisping batters or binding cutlets: use 50% to 60% of the weight. Produces a very crisp shell but lacks the earthy, roasted nutty flavour of besan.
Steep a tiny pinch (0.1 g per 2 g turmeric) in 2 tbsp warm water; use to match the rich golden hue. Contributes an aristocratic, honeyed floral flavour rather than earthy bitterness.
Use 25% of the baking powder's weight (e.g. 1 g for 4 g) and add 2 g cream of tartar or 1 tsp lime juice per 100 g flour. Mix quickly and bake at once.
Use 20% to 25% of the weight (1 g for every 4 to 5 g fresh). Stir into the gravy; adds peppery heat and warmth, though it misses the crisp, zesty kick of raw root.
Use 50% of the weight and stir in near the end of cooking. Adds warmth and depth since it contains ground coriander, but introduces stronger spices like clove and cinnamon.
Use 80% of the weight, finely shredded and browned slowly with a pinch of asafoetida. Replicates the bulk and natural sweetness in gravies without allium.