Slice 1000 g lamb into strips roughly 5 cm by 4 cm. Combine them in a pot with 10 g white malt vinegar, 1 litre of water, and salt to taste, then simmer gently for 60 to 90 minutes until tender.
Transfer the spice paste masala to a small blender, pour in a splash of water, and grind into a thick, uniform paste.
Warm 54 g vegetable oil in a wide, heavy-bottomed pan over low heat. Add the whole spices for the oil and cook for 2 to 3 minutes until they crackle.
Toss in 150 g chopped onion and cook for 4 minutes until soft and translucent. Add 30 g chopped garlic and 24 g chopped ginger, stirring for an additional 2 minutes.
Stir the blended spice paste into the pan and fry for 2 minutes. Maintain low heat and continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until the sauce thickens and concentrates.
Tip the cooked meat into the thickened sauce, stir well to coat, and warm through before serving.
Use the same weight. The seeds are smaller and hotter; fry in hot oil until they pop, about 20–30 seconds, and reduce the heat if they darken too fast. The dish will be a little sharper.
Use 70% of the weight of whole seed, added with the other ground spices rather than fried whole. You lose the popping texture and the heat comes through more evenly.
Use 80% of the weight, finely shredded and browned slowly with a pinch of asafoetida. Replicates the bulk and natural sweetness in gravies without allium.
Use 15% to 20% of the weight (about 1 g for every 5 to 6 g fresh cloves). Whisk into sauces; gives a savoury, toasted garlic flavour without raw pungency.
Use 1 g ground for 4 g whole (or 1 small pinch per 2 to 3 whole cloves). Add with spice powders; disperses intense warmth quickly, so use with restraint.
Allspice berries
Use 100% of the weight whole in tempering. Imparts a warm, clove-like aromatic profile combined with hints of nutmeg and cinnamon.
Use about a third of the weight (0.5 g ground for a 2.5 cm piece), stirred in with the ground spices rather than fried whole, since the powder burns quickly.
Steep a tiny pinch (0.1 g per 2 g turmeric) in 2 tbsp warm water; use to match the rich golden hue. Contributes an aristocratic, honeyed floral flavour rather than earthy bitterness.
Use 50% of the weight and stir in near the end of cooking. Adds warmth and depth since it contains ground coriander, but introduces stronger spices like clove and cinnamon.