A tangy Indian pineapple pickle in a mustard- and chilli-spiced oil, cooked until partly broken down but still chunky. It tastes sour, hot and slightly sweet, with a mustard-fenugreek finish.
Heat 183 g vegetable oil in a large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat.
Add 9.9 g mustard seed and fry for about 30 seconds, until they splutter.
Add 30 g curry leaf and the frying spices (6 g dried kashmiri chilli, 5.2 g kashmiri chilli powder and 3 g ground turmeric); cook for about 1 minute without burning the spices.
Add 500 g diced pineapple and 101 g white wine vinegar, then season to taste with caster sugar and sea salt.
Reduce the heat to low and cook for about 20 minutes, until half the pineapple has broken into a rough purée and the rest still holds its shape.
Stir in 2 g ground mustard seed and 3.3 g ground fenugreek and mix well.
Cool completely, then spoon into clean jars and cover.
Store the jars in the refrigerator and use within 2–3 weeks.
Use the same weight. The seeds are smaller and hotter; fry in hot oil until they pop, about 20–30 seconds, and reduce the heat if they darken too fast. The dish will be a little sharper.
Use 70% of the weight of whole seed, added with the other ground spices rather than fried whole. You lose the popping texture and the heat comes through more evenly.
Use 1 g powder for every 1.5 g whole dried chilli; whisk with a spoonful of warm water and stir into the masala to provide identical ruby colour and mild heat.
Steep a tiny pinch (0.1 g per 2 g turmeric) in 2 tbsp warm water; use to match the rich golden hue. Contributes an aristocratic, honeyed floral flavour rather than earthy bitterness.
Use equal weight (1:1). Whisk with a tablespoon of cold water 10 minutes prior to adding to develop full pungent heat, or stir directly into curries for gentle warmth.
Grind whole seeds finely in a spice grinder; use equal weight (1:1). Ensure it cooks through gently, as undercooked or burnt ground seeds become intensely bitter.
Crush dried leaves between your palms and add towards the end; use 50% of the weight. Gives the unmistakable maple-herb aroma without the sharp bitterness of the seeds.