A velvety Hyderabadi tomato curry thickened with roasted gram flour, balancing sweet-tart fruitiness with warming ground spices and an aromatic whole-seed tadka.
Bring 250 ml water to a boil in a large, heavy pan over medium-high heat. Add 1000 g tomato, 3.8–5 g curry leaf, and the tomato simmering spices. Cook for 10 minutes until the tomatoes soften, then rub through a fine sieve into a bowl to create a smooth purée, discarding the seeds and skins.
Pour 67.5 g vegetable oil into the pan and place over medium heat. Add 300–450 g onion and fry for 5–7 minutes until rich golden brown. Stir in the curry spice paste and fry for 2 minutes to cook out the raw aromatics.
Add the strained tomato purée to the pan and season with salt to taste, stirring well.
In a small bowl, stir 2 tablespoon chickpea flour with a little water to form a smooth slurry, then whisk it into the pan. Pour in a splash more water if necessary to achieve a thick, soup-like consistency, then simmer gently over medium heat for 10 minutes.
In a small frying pan, warm 13.5 g vegetable oil over medium heat. Add the tempering spices and 2–2.5 g curry leaf. As soon as the seeds crackle and become fragrant, pour the hot oil and spices over the tomato curry and stir to finish.
Use 40% to 50% of the fresh tomato weight mixed with a splash of water. Imparts a deeper red colour, thicker sauce, and slightly sweeter cooked flavour.
Use 80% of the weight, finely shredded and browned slowly with a pinch of asafoetida. Replicates the bulk and natural sweetness in gravies without allium.
Steep a tiny pinch (0.1 g per 2 g turmeric) in 2 tbsp warm water; use to match the rich golden hue. Contributes an aristocratic, honeyed floral flavour rather than earthy bitterness.
For crisping batters or binding cutlets: use 50% to 60% of the weight. Produces a very crisp shell but lacks the earthy, roasted nutty flavour of besan.
Use the same weight. The seeds are smaller and hotter; fry in hot oil until they pop, about 20–30 seconds, and reduce the heat if they darken too fast. The dish will be a little sharper.
Use 70% of the weight of whole seed, added with the other ground spices rather than fried whole. You lose the popping texture and the heat comes through more evenly.