Place 1000 g lamb into a wide, heavy saucepan along with the whole poaching spices. Pour over sufficient water to cover, bring to a boil, then turn the heat down and simmer gently for 30 minutes.
Roughly chop about one-third of the 250 g onion and transfer to a blender with 24 g ginger, 30 g garlic, and the spices for the wet paste. Blitz thoroughly to make a fine paste. Thinly slice the remaining two-thirds of the onion.
Melt 250 g ghee in another heavy pot over medium heat. Add the sliced onions and fry for 5 to 7 minutes until richly browned, then lift them out with a slotted spoon and set aside. Tip the pureed masala paste into the hot ghee and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes.
Strain the par-cooked lamb, keeping all the broth and discarding the whole spices. Transfer the meat into the pot with the fried masala, then stir in the reserved poaching liquid, 517 g yogurt, and salt to taste.
Crush the fried onions with your fingers and stir them into the sauce along with the finishing spice. Cover the pot and braise over low heat for roughly 30 minutes, stirring now and then, until the lamb is thoroughly tender.
Use about a third of the weight (0.5 g ground for a 2.5 cm piece), stirred in with the ground spices rather than fried whole, since the powder burns quickly.
Use 1 g ground for 4 g whole (or 1 small pinch per 2 to 3 whole cloves). Add with spice powders; disperses intense warmth quickly, so use with restraint.
Allspice berries
Use 100% of the weight whole in tempering. Imparts a warm, clove-like aromatic profile combined with hints of nutmeg and cinnamon.
Use 80% of the weight, finely shredded and browned slowly with a pinch of asafoetida. Replicates the bulk and natural sweetness in gravies without allium.
Use 15% to 20% of the weight (about 1 g for every 5 to 6 g fresh cloves). Whisk into sauces; gives a savoury, toasted garlic flavour without raw pungency.
Use 120% of the weight; melt gently over low heat to avoid burning the milk solids, which will yield a softer, creamier richness rather than a nutty aroma.
Use 50% of the weight mixed with equal parts ground coriander and a pinch of ground cinnamon, ground cloves, and ground green cardamom. Sprinkle near the end for a warming finish.