Non-vegetarianOrigin West BengalPrep 35 minutes, plus drying and marinating timeCook 40 minutes
A fragrant Bengali layered rice dish where rich hilsa fish is gently braised in an aromatic yogurt gravy and steamed with spiced basmati rice. It has a delicate, savoury richness with warming notes of whole sweet spices and ghee.
Spread 750 g basmati rice over a clean dish towel and leave it to air-dry until partially dry.
Blend 12 g ginger, 300 g onion and 18 g garlic together, drizzling in a splash of water if needed, to form a smooth paste. Transfer the paste to a wide bowl, stir in half of the 355 g plain yogurt and salt to taste. Coat 800 g fish steaks completely in the mixture, cover, and refrigerate for 1 hour.
If you plan to finish the dish in the oven, preheat it to 150°C / 300°F.
Heat 250 g ghee in a large, heavy-based pot over high heat until very hot. Drop the heat, tip in the whole spices for the ghee, and stir-fry for 1 minute. Slide in the fish along with all the marinade and fry for 3 minutes. Pour in 125 ml hot water, adjust the heat to medium-high, and cook for 7 minutes until the liquid boils away and the fish is done. Gently lift the fish steaks out and set them aside, leaving the seasoned sauce in the pot.
Add the semi-dried rice directly into the remaining sauce in the pot. Fry over high heat for a few minutes until the grains shift colour, then pour in 750 ml hot water, 750 g milk, 12.6 g granulated sugar and salt to taste. Stir, bring to a boil, then turn the heat down low, cover, and cook for 10–12 minutes until the rice is nearly tender.
Spoon the rice out into a bowl. Grease the pot thoroughly with butter. Layer the pot with alternating strata of rice and fish, starting and finishing with a layer of rice.
Lightly beat the remaining plain yogurt and drizzle it over the top layer of rice, then seal the pot with a tight lid.
Place a flat tawa or griddle over high heat, then lower the flame. Set the lidded pot on top of the griddle and steam on gentle heat for 15 minutes, or alternatively place the pot in the preheated oven for 15 minutes.
Use 80% of the weight, finely shredded and browned slowly with a pinch of asafoetida. Replicates the bulk and natural sweetness in gravies without allium.
Use 15% to 20% of the weight (about 1 g for every 5 to 6 g fresh cloves). Whisk into sauces; gives a savoury, toasted garlic flavour without raw pungency.
Use 120% of the weight; melt gently over low heat to avoid burning the milk solids, which will yield a softer, creamier richness rather than a nutty aroma.
Use 1 g ground for 4 g whole (or 1 small pinch per 2 to 3 whole cloves). Add with spice powders; disperses intense warmth quickly, so use with restraint.
Allspice berries
Use 100% of the weight whole in tempering. Imparts a warm, clove-like aromatic profile combined with hints of nutmeg and cinnamon.
Use about a third of the weight (0.5 g ground for a 2.5 cm piece), stirred in with the ground spices rather than fried whole, since the powder burns quickly.