Non-vegetarian●●●Origin HyderabadPrep 30 minutes, plus marinating timeCook 1½–2 hours
A slow-braised leg of lamb tenderised with fresh papaya and yoghurt, then cooked in a muslin bundle with khoya and spices. The finished meat is exceptionally succulent, coated in a thick, rich, and deeply savoury sauce.
In a shallow dish, whisk together 254 g plain yogurt, the juice of 1 lemon, and salt to taste. Thoroughly coat 1000 g lamb in the mixture, cover, and rest in the refrigerator for 15 minutes.
Put 18 g crushed garlic, 24 g peeled ginger, the paste seasoning, 8 peppercorns, 300 g onion, and 1 piece papaya into a food processor or blender with a splash of water if needed, and blitz into a completely smooth puree. Smear this paste across the lamb, puncture the meat deeply all over with a fork, then rub on the garam masala rub. Cover and refrigerate for 2 hours.
Lay a clean square of muslin flat. Place the marinated lamb onto the cloth along with the parcel spices, 100 g khoya, and 4.2 g granulated sugar, then tie the corners securely to form a tight pouch.
Melt 250 g ghee in a heavy casserole over low heat. Transfer the muslin bundle to the pot and pour in 250 ml water. Cover and simmer gently for 1½ to 2 hours, turning the bundle occasionally so it cooks evenly on both sides, until the meat is thoroughly tender and the liquid has almost entirely evaporated.
Carefully transfer the bundle to a serving platter, untie it, remove the meat, and press the rich juices and masala left in the muslin all over the lamb.
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Use 50% of the weight mixed with equal parts ground coriander and a pinch of ground cinnamon, ground cloves, and ground green cardamom. Sprinkle near the end for a warming finish.
Use 120% of the weight; melt gently over low heat to avoid burning the milk solids, which will yield a softer, creamier richness rather than a nutty aroma.