A robust Rajasthani lamb curry braised in mustard oil with yogurt and whole aromatics. Wild kachri melon gives the sauce a distinctive fruity tartness, tenderising the meat as it cooks.
Chilli powder
2.6 gWhisked into the yogurt and tomato sauce (step 2)
Purée 100 g roughly chopped onion in a blender until smooth, then set aside.
In a mixing bowl, stir together 127 g whisked plain yogurt, 150 g puréed tomato, the chilli powder, and salt to taste.
Heat 81 g mustard oil in a heavy-bottomed pan over high heat until smoking. Take the pan off the burner, splash in a few drops of water to temper the oil, and return to medium heat.
Tip in 150 g sliced onion and fry for about 4 minutes until pale golden.
Add the ginger and garlic pastes and cook for 1 to 2 minutes, stirring steadily until the excess liquid evaporates.
Toss in the whole spices, then stir in the reserved onion purée followed by 1000 g lamb. Sauté over medium-high heat for several minutes until the oil starts to separate from the mixture.
Take the pan off the burner and thoroughly mix in the seasoned yogurt sauce. Return to the stove, bring the liquid near a boil, then cover and simmer over low heat for 1 to 1½ hours, stirring periodically, until the lamb is tender.
Stir in 250 g kachri (or 3 tablespoons lemon juice), increase the heat to medium, and simmer for roughly 10 minutes until the kachri rounds have softened.
Use 80% of the weight, finely shredded and browned slowly with a pinch of asafoetida. Replicates the bulk and natural sweetness in gravies without allium.
Use 40% to 50% of the fresh tomato weight mixed with a splash of water. Imparts a deeper red colour, thicker sauce, and slightly sweeter cooked flavour.
Use 1 g ground for 4 g whole (or 1 small pinch per 2 to 3 whole cloves). Add with spice powders; disperses intense warmth quickly, so use with restraint.
Allspice berries
Use 100% of the weight whole in tempering. Imparts a warm, clove-like aromatic profile combined with hints of nutmeg and cinnamon.
Use about a third of the weight (0.5 g ground for a 2.5 cm piece), stirred in with the ground spices rather than fried whole, since the powder burns quickly.