Tender pieces of braised and browned lamb layered with cool whisked yoghurt and an herb-onion relish, gently infused with charcoal smoke. It is rich, subtly spiced, and deeply aromatic.
Braised meat spices
11 gAdded to the pan with the lamb and aromatics (step 1)
Place 500 g lamb into a large, heavy pot along with roughly one quarter of the 250 g sliced onion, 24–30 g ground garlic, 24 g sliced ginger, the braised meat spices, 1½ teaspoons of salt, and 250 ml of water.
Cover with a lid and simmer over a low flame for about 1½ hours, until the meat is thoroughly tender.
Uncover, stir in 250 g ghee, and fry the meat over medium heat until deeply browned all over. Take the pan off the heat.
In a separate bowl, toss the remaining sliced onion with 2 tablespoons chopped mint and 18–24 g chopped green chilli, seasoning lightly with salt.
Spread one third of the 1034 g whisked yogurt evenly across the browned lamb, followed by one third of the onion-herb mixture. Repeat twice more to form alternating layers.
Heat two or three small lumps of charcoal until glowing red. Set them onto a small sheet of foil atop the mixture, drizzle with a couple of drops of water or fat to produce smoke, and immediately seal the pot with a tight-fitting lid.
Rest the pan over the lowest possible heat for 15 to 20 minutes to permeate the dish with smoke, then serve gently, keeping the stratified layers undisturbed.
Use 80% of the weight, finely shredded and browned slowly with a pinch of asafoetida. Replicates the bulk and natural sweetness in gravies without allium.
Use 15% to 20% of the weight (about 1 g for every 5 to 6 g fresh cloves). Whisk into sauces; gives a savoury, toasted garlic flavour without raw pungency.
Use 50% of the weight and stir in near the end of cooking. Adds warmth and depth since it contains ground coriander, but introduces stronger spices like clove and cinnamon.
Use 120% of the weight; melt gently over low heat to avoid burning the milk solids, which will yield a softer, creamier richness rather than a nutty aroma.
Use about 30% of the weight of fresh mint. Rub between your palms to crush before stirring in; the flavour will be more intensely herbal and less bright.