A sticky, sweet-sour grape chutney with Bengali five-spice warmth and a mild chilli kick. It cooks down to a glossy, spoonable consistency and is stored chilled.
Heat 27 g vegetable oil in a heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. When hot, add the whole spices for the oil (8.1 g panch phoran) and let them sizzle for 10 seconds.
Add the chilli for frying (2.5 g dried mild chilli, halved) and 10 g fresh ginger, finely grated; fry for a few seconds. Stir in 800 g red seedless grapes, then add 30.6 g lemon juice and 80 g dark brown sugar and mix. Add 100 ml water, bring to a boil and simmer over low heat for 1 hour 40 minutes, uncovered, stirring now and then, until sticky and slightly runny; it thickens as it cools. Stir in the chilli flakes to finish (0.3 g) and mix well.
Pack the chutney into a sterilised jar, chill it, and use within a week.
Use about 40% of the weight, with equal amounts of fennel seed and nigella seeds if you have them. It is not a true blend; the result is cumin-forward and less complex.
Use about 30% of the weight with cumin and mustard seed to approximate the blend. It adds sweetness but misses fenugreek's bitterness and nigella's onion note.
Use 20% to 25% of the weight (1 g for every 4 to 5 g fresh). Stir into the gravy; adds peppery heat and warmth, though it misses the crisp, zesty kick of raw root.
Use the same weight. Crush whole dried red chillies in a mortar, shaking out some seeds if you want less heat. Gives the same heat but a coarser, more uneven texture.
Use the same weight. Soak in hot water for 10 minutes if the recipe needs a paste, or crush dry for a flake-like texture. Slightly more work and less uniform.