Whole aubergines are slit and stuffed with a pungent, tangy blend of classic pickling spices fried in mustard oil. The dish is sharp, aromatic, and deeply savoury with gentle bitter notes from the seeds.
Slit a cross into the base of each of the 3 aubergines, cutting towards the stem while keeping them attached at the top. Stir salt to taste into 2 tablespoons of water in a small ramekin until completely dissolved.
Pour 54 g mustard oil into a deep, heavy pan or kadhai set over high heat. Once smoking hot, dial the heat down, add the whole pickling spices, and stir-fry for roughly 1 minute until the seeds crackle and pop.
Scatter in the ground spices, immediately pour in the prepared salt water, and stir-fry for 30 seconds. Take the pan off the heat.
Divide the spiced mixture evenly among the aubergines, packing it into the cuts. Place the stuffed aubergines back into the pan, cover tightly, and steam over very low heat for 5 to 7 minutes, gently rolling them once or twice until heated through and tender.
Use the same weight. The seeds are smaller and hotter; fry in hot oil until they pop, about 20–30 seconds, and reduce the heat if they darken too fast. The dish will be a little sharper.
Use 70% of the weight of whole seed, added with the other ground spices rather than fried whole. You lose the popping texture and the heat comes through more evenly.
Use 50% of the weight and stir in near the end of cooking. Adds warmth and depth since it contains ground coriander, but introduces stronger spices like clove and cinnamon.
Steep a tiny pinch (0.1 g per 2 g turmeric) in 2 tbsp warm water; use to match the rich golden hue. Contributes an aristocratic, honeyed floral flavour rather than earthy bitterness.