Paturi Maachh

Blanch large outer leaves for 30 seconds and use as a parcel; use the same size to wrap. No banana aroma.

Blanch whole leaves for 1 minute and use as a wrap; slightly tougher and more peppery.

Use the same weight, cut into steaks or cubes. Cooking time is the same; skin can be left on if you like.

Use the same weight. Check for bones; simmer 2–3 minutes more if the pieces are thick.

Use the same weight. River fish may need 2–3 minutes extra; keep the simmer gentle.

Use the same weight for tempering. It is the closest match; watch the heat because it can pop faster than yellow mustard seed.

Use the same weight, or 75% if you want less heat. It is sharper and more pungent; temper in hot oil as usual.

Use about half the weight of whole seed, mix with a little water and add near the end. It will not give the same whole-seed crunch in a tempering.

Use equal weight. Pop in hot fat until they crackle and turn greyish; yields an almost identical nutty, pungent finish.

Use equal weight. Fry over medium heat; delivers a milder, sweeter pop and turns bitter quickly if the oil is excessively hot.

Use 10 to 15% of the weight (about 1/4 teaspoon per chilli); imparts dry pungent heat and reddens the dish without the grassy crunch.

Use 1 dried pod per fresh green chilli; snap in half and temper in hot oil for a deeper, toastier heat.

Use 50% of the weight. Mimics turmeric's warm, earthy, rhizome background, but provides none of the golden-yellow colour.

Steep a tiny pinch (0.1 g per 2 g turmeric) in 2 tbsp warm water; use to match the rich golden hue. Contributes an aristocratic, honeyed floral flavour rather than earthy bitterness.

Use equal weight. It handles high-heat cooking well, but lacks the signature pungent, nasal heat of mustard oil.

Use equal weight. Neutral in flavour, so your curry will lack the characteristic Bengali or North Indian pungent punch.

Use equal weight; grate or shave finely so it dissolves rapidly, giving a warm, caramel-like sweetness and slightly darker sauce.