Combine 750 g ground lamb with 100 g raw papaya paste in a bowl, cover, and chill in the refrigerator for 30 minutes.
Stir 4 tbsp roasted gram flour into the meat, cover again, and leave to rest for 10 minutes.
Add 1 tsp garam masala and salt to taste, mixing thoroughly until evenly distributed.
Warm a small spoonful of the 52.8 g ghee in a pan over low heat, add the cardamom for smoking, and fry for 1 to 2 minutes until reddened, then remove from the heat.
To smoke the meat, transfer the lamb to a wide pan and hollow out the centre. Set a heatproof container in the well, place glowing charcoal inside, and scatter the fried cardamom seeds along with 1 tbsp ghee over the coals. Cover tightly with a lid right away and smoke for 30 minutes, then discard the charcoal bowl.
Divide the mixture into 12 equal portions, roll each into a ball, and flatten into 2 cm (¾ inch) thick patties.
Melt the remaining ghee on a wide griddle or frying pan over very low heat. Fry the patties gently for 3 to 4 minutes, flipping once with care, then drain on paper towels.
Use minced chicken (preferably dark thigh meat) at 100% of the weight. Halve the browning and simmering time; add an extra tablespoon of ghee or oil as chicken is much leaner than lamb.
Use about 75–80% of the weight, e.g. 80 g for 100 g gram flour, and add a pinch of turmeric for colour. Less nutty and less crisp; good only for thickening or simple batters.
Use 50% of the weight mixed with equal parts ground coriander and a pinch of ground cinnamon, ground cloves, and ground green cardamom. Sprinkle near the end for a warming finish.
Use 120% of the weight; melt gently over low heat to avoid burning the milk solids, which will yield a softer, creamier richness rather than a nutty aroma.